701 Industries Manual trim mods - Sea-Doo Spark Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Default 701 Industries Manual trim mods

About a year ago I ordered this manual trim system for my spark. Being something of a good idea the implementation had a few glaring flaws. The first on the list is the steering stem extension bracket. It is supposed to be firmly wedged against the original plastic bracket and hold tight but being metal rubbing in plastic it started moving around in the clamp and pivoting a little so no matter how tight you tightened the hold down bolt it would turn and you would always have a bit of slop in the steering. I welded a stainless bolt to the link and installed another bracket so it cannot shift around . Another member already had his snap off so hopefully this will beef up the whole assembly .
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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The main thing this should have come with is an appropriate lever to pull up the nozzle. The 2 fingered one from a bicycle doesnt cut it because under power you just dont have the leverage or strength to keep it in position. The clutch lever from a motorcycle solves the problem . Tailstands for prolonged periods are possible without hand cramps. The best part is you can trim up exactly when you want instantly like in a backwards slide or drift and go back to no trim for the next manuver .
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ive been asked about this several times so here is how to keep the steering cable and ball joint from binding when going to full up position. On the side that tilts you need to take a dremel and grind a small groove in the spacer so it can tilt a few more degrees and not bind. You dont have to go all the way through the spacer but you will be close. And just do the top and opposite side on the bottom to keep the strength there. I have not found any high degree ball joints in this small of a size . This should help from breaking the steering cable shaft that sticks out of the machine. With out this mod you will notice there is a dramatic increase in tension on the lever to get the last few degrees of trim.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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The one other thing is I set the cable tension on the trim tight so as to make the nozzle trim up several degrees when out of the water. When the pump is running it will pull the nozzle level and take up all the slop in the cable and housing so when you apply trim it will go all the way up when you want it to. I know this is all a bit of work but it is night and day difference on how well this system works .
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 07:09 PM
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What specific clutch lever did you order?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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I dont remember where I got the lever from but its a universal 7/8" bar mount clutch/brake lever . You can get them off ebay fro $10 . The lever is 5" long . I think I might have went to a local dirt bike shop and got one off the rack .
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-10-2018, 07:39 AM
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So i picked up a clutch lever from my local powersports store, looked EXACTLY like yours, however, it did not have enough travel to pull the nozzle all the way up. My attempt to bend it with some heat resulted in it just breaking, which caused some words lol, did you run into this issue?

for now I just slapped on a 4 finger brake lever from a bicycle on there and was able to easily bend it to get plenty of travel. It should work just fine but its silver and would prefer a black one. I may just paint it and see if it holds up. but for now it should work just fine.

I copied your steering support and it looks like its gonna work great. I didnt see how you modified your heim joint till I already modified mine, I heated and carefully bent the stainless extension they sent so in the normal position its angled up, no binding. I may leave it or I may tig weld another together and do what you did.

another thing I did was angle the collar/adjuster where the steering rod goes into the cable right behind the front steering arm. With mine, due to the added extension, and the angle it caused the steering rod to go into the cable at the adjuster, it caused the cable to rub on the inside and felt like i was turning the bars in gravel. Curious if you ran into this issue? Did a small reroute of the cable under deck, and ground a couple spacers on an angle and put them under the torx screws holding the adjusting collar on. That may be clear as mud, I can take a couple photos later

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
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I did have to trim a bit of the grip where the end of the lever came to the bar when fully squeezed to get a tad more travel . I do have a slight amount of friction up at the front of the cable . I like the angled shim idea. Did you adjust the the cable tension extra tight so the nozzle sticks up about an inch? Once you get full up trim you should also be able to move the bars lock to lock without binding. Like I said it is a great concept but the implementation leaves a lot to be desired .
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 08:59 AM
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I didnt not adjust the nozzle up while the lever is at rest because I have plenty of travel in the lever I put on to make sure its all the way up, would doing this still help?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Zip tie the handle to the bars and check your up travel tension. Remember there will be a serious amount of force trying to make the nozzle straight so push down on it with the strength of your thumb on the nozzle end. Then you will see how much slop and flex there is in a cable setup of that length. Just idling along I can throw a roost quite a ways with just a touch of throttle and leaning forward . Even to the side you can hose someone down 50 feet away.
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