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I changed the oil and filters today. First off Id like to say you suck to BRP for the male torx bolts. They will be replaced with real bolts. I remembered others having issues with battery terminal bolts coming loose and sure enough both my sparks had loose terminals. A couple of star washers fixed that. Also both the starter solenoids had one nut loose on those terminals.
So next time your in there make sure your cables are tight. Loose terminals can cause a stall condition or no start on fuel injected vehicles. The valve cover wiring mod I did earlier with more split loom and zip ties seems to be holding up .
I will expunge the filters and check for debris later this week.
I did idle over a sand bar today that was a foot deeper yesterday. It sucked in sand and stalled the engine. We washed it out and it runs normal.
One steering column bearing seems a bit worn but no cracks anywhere.
Ill swing by the dealer this week and have them inspect and document the plastic blems in the orange crush hull which might be cracks .
 

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Here are the filters disected from both machines. A bit more debris than I was expecting for an engine with this reputation but its the second filter change which will show the true condition of the engine.
 

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The first filter is always scary , the second will be the one to take a look at ...

Built many motors and u will always have some metal present on first filter change ...
 

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I can't believe someone would buy a new Spark and wait until the recommend 100 hour mark or 1 year to do the first oil change. Hopefully the picture of your oil filter element will change some peoples minds.
 

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The first filter is always scary , the second will be the one to take a look at ...

Built many motors and u will always have some metal present on first filter change ...
i think even with oil changes far into the process you will still notice them, even if it's just a bit.
 

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On the plus side the factory filters do seem to be very high quality and capacity media. I have always believed in a magnet to capture the micro fine metal pieces which I will figure a way to get some in the system. Ive built hundreds of engine throughout my career and from my experience breakin happens in the first 20 minutes of runtime. You can actually see the results when we dyno tune the race engines. Funny thing most machines already have the breakin done before the customers even get their hands on them. In my opinion there really is no such thing as "break in" unless your talking about a new pair of jeans. In 30 years of engine building and teardown Ive never seen evidence that any way its done is good or bad. Virtually all early issues Ive run across were the result of bad parts or builders mistakes.
Thats why I always cut filters apart after a few hours to see the condition of the engine . Both of these were the same and at 20 hours I will be expecting very little debris on the next change. If all is well I will extend changes to once a year.
 

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On the plus side the factory filters do seem to be very high quality and capacity media. I have always believed in a magnet to capture the micro fine metal pieces which I will figure a way to get some in the system. Ive built hundreds of engine throughout my career and from my experience breakin happens in the first 20 minutes of runtime. You can actually see the results when we dyno tune the race engines. Funny thing most machines already have the breakin done before the customers even get their hands on them. In my opinion there really is no such thing as "break in" unless your talking about a new pair of jeans. In 30 years of engine building and teardown Ive never seen evidence that any way its done is good or bad. Virtually all early issues Ive run across were the result of bad parts or builders mistakes.
Thats why I always cut filters apart after a few hours to see the condition of the engine . Both of these were the same and at 20 hours I will be expecting very little debris on the next change. If all is well I will extend changes to once a year.
Very interesting. Already broken in. I wonder with today's SolidWorks designed engines as opposed to the old paper drafting engine design where a pencil thickness made all the difference. How much "You must break in your new engine." (Car, Sea Doo etc) is more something the buying public expects after a 100 years of gas combustion use. Rather than a practice that must be followed. Today's tolerances between moving metals parts is so much better. But based on the above pictures and what BRP says is the first interval, which way do you go? My father and grandfather lived by the 3000 mile oil change rule. I used to but now follow the manual for all my big machines.
 

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Very interesting. Already broken in. I wonder with today's SolidWorks designed engines as opposed to the old paper drafting engine design where a pencil thickness made all the difference. How much "You must break in your new engine." (Car, Sea Doo etc) is more something the buying public expects after a 100 years of gas combustion use. Rather than a practice that must be followed. Today's tolerances between moving metals parts is so much better. But based on the above pictures and what BRP says is the first interval, which way do you go? My father and grandfather lived by the 3000 mile oil change rule. I used to but now follow the manual for all my big machines.
...you can easily double that with maybe the exception of a lot of "cold start" "short trip" cycles..then maybe annually 1500~ miles but, for the most of us, 6-10K changes (on "dino"oils will not cause any undo wear. Todays oils are a far cry from the 10W-40 of 1974 that Dad used. Today's oils are STOUT. The full synthetics don't absorb moisture and I'm comfy going 2+ years between changes on my Jeep which I drive little in the winter. (>3K~ annually) Instead, maybe use a higher quality and oversize filter (Pure Ones from purolator come to mind at a nice price) and take that money to change the coolant/ATF at recommended times instead (two often forgotten services). Flush the brake fluid every few years instead. I've got a 16 year old full size Ford running "dino" 5W-30 that goes 7500 between changes at quick lubes and at 190K uses ONE quart between changes (not to mention a full size car (3.oL V6) getting real world 21-27 mpg on regular fuel):nerd:. 50K transmission pan drops and refills keep that part in check along with bi-annual coolant flush/changes for the malignant "sludge" that are common on these cars.

Change your Sea doo annually with the recommened short break in and you should have it outlast you I bet!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will be doing the next oil filter change after todays ride . I am curious if anyone else here has been examining there filters or just doing it all blind?
 

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I am 27 hours on my 2014 and 2 hours on my 2015. Both of them will get their first oil change at the same time at the end of this summer. 100 hours is probably still over kill for oil changes. With today's oils early oil changes are not required. With the tight tolerances of today's engines I would be surprised if the filters couldn't do double that.


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Some new engines are filled with a special "break-in" oil and this is why some manufacturers recommend running this oil for certain number of hours. I would check with the factory for the initial oil spec before you replace it too soon. Metal shavings and other stuff is caught by the filter anyways, and is not recirculated, so I don't see a reason for worry.
Anyone correct me on this?
 

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I've been a licensed mechanic for 14 years. Since I work for a dealer we have constant training sometime 20 courses a year. Some of which are on new age oils. The technology that goes into today's oil is incredible. New cars are going 16,000 km between oil changes and even that is aired on the side of safety.


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