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Discussion Starter #1
Looks like my Wife tore up the drive shaft splines where it connects to the prop. I ordered a new shaft, solas prop and wear ring. My question is, to remove the shaft I need to break the oetiker clamp by the pto and it should come out correct? I have not been able to find anywhere that has a new clamp. Is this a regular 1" oetiker clamp that one would use on sprinkler pipe? I use to install sprinklers so I have the tool still but need the clamp to re-assemble correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's the problem. I can't find a website that sells those clamps. Not even seadoo themselves. If anyone can find them, please let me know where. I am going to remove the top hull tonight and see if I can get the shaft removed. Wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you, ordered the boot and both clamps. I'm second guessing myself now. Drive shaft seems to be tight in PTO and old prop. Will the torque of the motor cause slippage that I can't by hand. Splines aren't as bad as I thought, though with nothing to compare it to, they may be worse than I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PTO end looks fine. I received my new drive shaft today and there doesn't seem to be any difference. The only thing I could tell I did wrong the last time I replaced the wear ring was I didn't line up the ear on the wear ring in the proper spot. I had it aligned with the mechanical bilge spout instead of the small ear on the pump. I have no idea whether this could have made a difference or not. At this point I will put it back together and see what happens. Just waiting for my new boot and clamps. I will give a report once i'm done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, happy to report the problem is fixed, although I have no idea what actually fixed the problem. Replaced the drive shaft, wear ring and put a new solas prop on. I made sure to align the wear ring in its proper spot and greased the inside so they could mate together properly. After it was all back together I fired it up and it sounds great. Still have to water test it but no more terrible screeching sound. I wish there would have been some clearer explanation as to which part actually fixed it but regardless, I'm ecstatic it's fixed and I didn't have to pay the local shop to do it. I can tell you the hardest part of this job is dealing with the rubber boot between the pto and the hull. I figured out that if you remove the clamps and then slip zip ties through the boot and pull them tight,(on 4 different side so as to try and keep the boot as round as possible) you can then have enough room to cut the small oetiker clamp to remove the drive shaft. Hope this helps anybody wanting to do this on their own.
 

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Good to hear what solas prop did you use?I'm still waiting on my parts but this is just end of year maintenance

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Discussion Starter #12
Stainless SK-CD-12/17 I didn't want to go crazy since the only engine mod I've made is replacing the intake manifold. Plus it's my wifes ski, I don't want it faster than mine :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally water tested the ski after work tonight. I live in Idaho with an elevation of 3500 ft. With my 230 lb frame I used to get 43 mph on smooth water. Tonight the river was a little rough and I hit 47 mph. I believe on smooth water I would have hit 48. The major difference is in the bottom end. It comes out of the hole so much quicker and doesn't try to cavitate at all under hard turning. I never put it in sport mode. With my 110 lb wife on it it's gonna kick my 2019's ass. Needless to say I will be doing some mods this winter to mine. The solas prop is a must. I believe the riva intake manifold is also a must. I'm going to do the cold air intake as well on mine. Hope this info helps.
 
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