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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 2016 3up IBR Spark and I want to get VTS for it. All over the internet I've found $209. My local dealer has it for $199. Any better price out there than the 199 that anyone has run across?
 

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A tip when you're installing. Keep the engine hatch installed until you're ready to install the module. I knocked the red start button off the switch and it fell straight into the hull. Went from a 30 minute install to a two hour install. Fahhhhhk.
 

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I had a mess of a time fumbling with the start/stop switch and VTS switch while trying to get the cover down in the proper place. My shop stand was meant for standups so the Spark sat a bit higher than what was 'comfortable' to work on. It was also a bit of a bitch getting the wires out of the steering stem at the bottom. It butts up almost even with the bottom of the exoskel body. I ended up using a coat hangar with a tight hook bent in one end to snatch the wire terminals and get them from the base of the stem. It'll make sense when you get there. LOL.

I'm an automotive technician by trade so I'm used to the connector theories. I ended up taking the black cap off the rear of the display connector so I had some more of the white plugs to grab to remove them. I also pulled the white lock cap all the way off and I was able to get the plugs out by juggling the harness, a pair of needlenose pliers and a tiny screwdriver to release the locking tab that holds the plug in.

If you have never seen your diagnostic connector before, its clipped into its spot on the side of what I think might be the airbox. You'll have to use braille to follow the harness and it's the only one that goes to the airbox area. The instructions aren't clear, but it's also the only 6 pin Deutsch connector (exactly like a 787 stator connector) around so once you find it you're in. You may find that longer zipties will help get the module strapped to the harness like in the picture. I'm going to fix this part on my install when I have the top deck off for the first time.

Let me know if you need any help. Send me a PM and I'll send you my cell number so I can get you immediate replies
-Scott
 

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I had a mess of a time fumbling with the start/stop switch and VTS switch while trying to get the cover down in the proper place. My shop stand was meant for standups so the Spark sat a bit higher than what was 'comfortable' to work on. It was also a bit of a bitch getting the wires out of the steering stem at the bottom. It butts up almost even with the bottom of the exoskel body. I ended up using a coat hangar with a tight hook bent in one end to snatch the wire terminals and get them from the base of the stem. It'll make sense when you get there. LOL.

I'm an automotive technician by trade so I'm used to the connector theories. I ended up taking the black cap off the rear of the display connector so I had some more of the white plugs to grab to remove them. I also pulled the white lock cap all the way off and I was able to get the plugs out by juggling the harness, a pair of needlenose pliers and a tiny screwdriver to release the locking tab that holds the plug in.

If you have never seen your diagnostic connector before, its clipped into its spot on the side of what I think might be the airbox. You'll have to use braille to follow the harness and it's the only one that goes to the airbox area. The instructions aren't clear, but it's also the only 6 pin Deutsch connector (exactly like a 787 stator connector) around so once you find it you're in. You may find that longer zipties will help get the module strapped to the harness like in the picture. I'm going to fix this part on my install when I have the top deck off for the first time.

Let me know if you need any help. Send me a PM and I'll send you my cell number so I can get you immediate replies
-Scott

I gave up on trying to run the wires through the steering stem. I just drilled a small hole and routed the wires through it. It worked out just fine, the wires have plenty of play. Here are some pics of the install.


Personal protective equipment Helmet Automotive design Vehicle Technology
Tire Automotive design Auto part Automotive lighting Automotive wheel system
Automotive exterior Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the installation notes/tips guys. I'll be doing this on the trailer in my garage so I fully expect it to be a PitA. A friend was able to get it for me for a pretty nice discount.
 

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Thanks SparkTheBand - I couldn't find the connector and your instructions helped. I also used longer zip ties to secure the module. Works like a champ.

When I snaked the line down the steering column, I went ahead and removed the front cover (color thing). One crew and it slips out. Then I could reach the bottom of the column and guide the wires out.

Ran a bunch this weekend with VTS. On my RI you can really tell the difference in both attitude and speed, but I didn't find that on the Spark it made any difference in speed, just attitude it the water. But still a great add-on. Why don't they just add this at the factory?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the tips guys. VTS install went easy because of all the information i gleaned on forums. Honestly the hardest part was contorting to zip tie the module in place. I don't quite understand how people said fishing the wire in the steering column was hard. That part took me less than 45 seconds to complete. I couldn't get the release tool to work right on those pins, so i just pulled the inner connector out completely and it went real smooth. Overall about 30 minutes start to finish taking my time to grab a beer.

When testing the VTS in IBR override mode. Is the bucket and motor supposed to operate smoothly in one motion, or does the motor have a pulsing sound to it, like there are several stops/positions built in to the full range of motion? It seems to travel up and down just fine, but it has a pulsing sound to it. I can take video if this description/question isn't clear.
 

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When testing the VTS in IBR override mode. Is the bucket and motor supposed to operate smoothly in one motion, or does the motor have a pulsing sound to it, like there are several stops/positions built in to the full range of motion? It seems to travel up and down just fine, but it has a pulsing sound to it. I can take video if this description/question isn't clear.
Mine did the same thing. It kinds goes ZERT ... ZERT ... zert ... and moves in pulses. So that must be how it works. My arm isn't long enough to hold it in iBR override, work the VTS button, AND be able to see the back of the ski so I couldn't really tell what it was doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mine did the same thing. It kinds goes ZERT ... ZERT ... zert ... and moves in pulses. So that must be how it works. My arm isn't long enough to hold it in iBR override, work the VTS button, AND be able to see the back of the ski so I couldn't really tell what it was doing.
AH yes, zert zert zert is the description i was looking for! :) I had my wife hold the ibr lever and operate it while i looked more closely. The motor seems to make that noise, and the bucket seems to move like the noise would imply. Maybe those are just electronic digital "positions" for the trim rather than a truely analog fine tunable adjustment. Either way, if your guys' VTS sound the same, I am satisfied that its working properly.

First ride this weekend!
 

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Probably steps for the neutral adjustment. Vts steps seem to be further apart. When in neutral with the ski running you can fine tune the neutral position with the vts control.
 
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