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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '14 Spark and am confused whether I need to run antifreeze through the system at all?

I've heard that 55 psi air should be sufficient, but that brings me to my next question: I have a small air compressor that I use to fill up automobile tires, but I am unsure of what fitting I would need to use it with the ski. Could someone please provide some guidance on how to attach an air compressor to the ski for winterization purposes?

As far as I know, I do not have the flushing attachment installed (not sure if this came with the convenience package). The manual does a good job explaining WHAT to do, but not HOW to do it :/

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Alex
 

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Here's what I did today: I already tried to blow the exhaust system clear of water and found that I couldn't get the last litre or so of water out of the system, the problem isn't air pressure its air volume. Today I purchased about a 4 foot length of 5/8" clear plastic tubing from the local Canadian Tire store and a 5$ gallon jug of non-toxic plumbing anti-freeze and a 6$ anti-freeze tester. The hose pushes on easily to the water intake nozzle which is located to the left and very low, near the jet output and to the other end I affixed a small funnel. I put a plastic container under the place where the water/anti-freeze runs out which is near the rear of the water intake and poured the anti-freeze into the funnel until the solution that I was collecting in the plastic container tested to ~30 below using the anti-freeze tester.

I was a little saddened to discover that you can't completely drain water from these machines, because I frequently travel between a great many inland lakes and do not want to migrate Zebra Muscles or Foil or any other water borne pests from one lake to another, so this funnel and hose will see regular use from now on, because I will be using it to chlorinate (add Javex bleach) to the system after every use from now on.

One other thing I am going to try is to buy a replacement air hose for my air pig and then cut the schrader valve off the hose and try using that to more effectively blow out the exhaust system clear of water. But I don't hold a lot of hope for ever getting the water completely removed from the system without modifying it with a drain mounted lower in the exhaust chamber. Will let you know later how that works out.
 

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Getting the extra water out isn't necessary but doesn't hurt. The little bit of water left will have plenty of room to expand. The service manual doesn't lie.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies guys, but the other parts of my question are:
1. What kind of connector (adapter or attachment) do I need to buy to connect my air compressor to the flush port?

I don't have any flush adapters and don't believe I have any kits installed to make attaching a garden hose possible.
2. I ride in only fresh water, so would flushing be necessary at all? If so, could someone please point me in the direction of what adapters I'd need?

Thanks in advance!
 

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If you ride in fresh water flushing isn't a huge deal. But at the end of the season it is a good idea. As far as blowing out the water I don't use any adapter. I just take a free flowing air line with no fitting on it and just line it up with the flush port. I never bothered with an adapter. You really don't want high pressure so lining up a free flowing air line should suffice.


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Cormacs is probably 100% correct, I just felt that if there is anything left in there, it would be better if it's something that won't freeze totally solid.

I won't be in any sea water either, but adamant that I don't want to transport invasive anything between waterways, so the only flushing I will be doing is for that purpose and no significant water pressure or volume will be needed.

The nozzle is very large in diameter and there is no restriction on the air or water flow through it, so a tiny air compressor like the ones you carry for car emergencies isn't going to cut it. Just as Cormacs suggested, you don't need a very sophisticated setup to make it work, but it does need a good blast of air to get significant results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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You'll need something that can supply a steady pressure of 50 p.s.i. If your compressor can withstand that for more that a minute it won't cut it. All your doing is getting enough water out to make a big enough cavity for the water to expand into ice.


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The cooling system isn't designed to be under pressure. It is circulated using a Venturi style pump so very low pressure. That's why the service manual suggests no higher than 50 p.s.i. Even though it is free flowing system water built up in a line could create a head pressure and possible burst one of the lines if the pressure is high enough.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so I finally bought a better air compressor.

One more question:
Do I need to remove the IBR bucket in order to run air through the flush port? Note that I do not have the flush kit installed, and this is a '14 Spark.
 

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No you don't. If you don't have the flush kit just look on the left side of the nozzle. You will see a small pipe about an inch long sticking out of the back beside the nozzle. Just push your air hose against that pipe and you should start seeing water running out of the intake grate. It's a little tricky but you can weasel the air line past the ride plate and the IBR bucket to line it up with the pipe. I just blow it out, start and let run for 5 seconds and repeat until no more water drips out. Some times takes 5-6 times.


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The components are aluminum so corrosion shouldn't be an issue. However the impeller is a low grade of stainless that will still rust so I sprayed my impeller with some krone rust inhibiter.


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Yeah I use the IBR override to open the bucket and then I spray in from the back side giving a healthy coating. Anything that is a corrosion inhibitor will work. Eve's wd40 would work.


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I made a tool for doing this by drilling a hole through a rubber stopper so that I can push my blowgun into it, then push the rubber stopper into the flush kit to create a seal that allows great transfer of air pressure from the hose through the exhaust system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
QuackDoc, I bought this -

To my fortunate surprise, the rubber tip creates a perfect seal on the other half of a 2' long 1/2" thick riser pipe that I bought to make a cheap flush kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I read that aluminum is actually very prone to corrosion. But the corrosion is actually aluminum oxide, which protects against further corrosion? but if this is the case, why wouldn't the manual advise to use antifreeze?
 
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