could be a sensor issue, but it could also be an air leak, maybe not much of an air leak, not noticeable at slower speeds but at faster rpm's maybe its starting to leak? the sensor monitors air pressure in the intake manifold so if it sees anything out of what it considers normal it will set the code off.
Check Engine warning
I wanted to run this by you folks.
We've had one of our sparks in the shop for a check engine light twice now.
Both times the warning was for MAP sensor. This time they are going to replace the sensor.
Do you think this is the right thing to do?
My concern is the ski went into limp mode, but the ECU didn't record that it did, it only recorded the MAP sensor error.
Interestingly, my wife put almost an hour on it after they cleared the fault the first time and it never re-occurred. But 60 seconds into me pushing it really hard, then it did.
I will try to put some time on it as soon as I get it back and see what happens.
We've had one of our sparks in the shop for a check engine light twice now.
Both times the warning was for MAP sensor. This time they are going to replace the sensor.
Do you think this is the right thing to do?
My concern is the ski went into limp mode, but the ECU didn't record that it did, it only recorded the MAP sensor error.
Interestingly, my wife put almost an hour on it after they cleared the fault the first time and it never re-occurred. But 60 seconds into me pushing it really hard, then it did.
I will try to put some time on it as soon as I get it back and see what happens.
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Fortunately if it's a sensor issue your warranty should cover that.
Thankfully, there has been no issue so far with the warranty. I just hope this is the fix.
I'd look for any vaccum leaks, that all is "tight" etc., then cxlear the code, and change the sensor and start over, if it sets again, you've got other issues...try to get er done and use it before the season/warranty is over...
Good tip, it would indeed be a good idea to go through that.I'd look for any vaccum leaks, that all is "tight" etc., then cxlear the code, and change the sensor and start over, if it sets again, you've got other issues...try to get er done and use it before the season/warranty is over...
I got it back from the dealer, they replaced the MAP sensor. That has not fixed it, it doesn't seem to have much of a problem until after it heats up, with one exception.
When the engine is cold (and I am being gentle with it) the engine warning came on once. A few minutes later it completely stalled, even the instrument panel went out.
Later after a while of hard driving it started acting up again. random engine warnings, rough idle hard to get back to speed.
BUT, if I remove the key and restart it runs fine for about 10 min.
Could this be an ECM issue?
I find it surprising that it could be a vacuum issue that can clear from a restart?
After the check engine alarm comes on, when it returns to idles it is very rough. When I try to accelerate, it reminds me of a flooded engine, that takes some time to get RPMs back then runs great once clear. If it wasn't for the rough idle I would almost think the throttle system was broken.
When the engine is cold (and I am being gentle with it) the engine warning came on once. A few minutes later it completely stalled, even the instrument panel went out.
Later after a while of hard driving it started acting up again. random engine warnings, rough idle hard to get back to speed.
BUT, if I remove the key and restart it runs fine for about 10 min.
Could this be an ECM issue?
I find it surprising that it could be a vacuum issue that can clear from a restart?
After the check engine alarm comes on, when it returns to idles it is very rough. When I try to accelerate, it reminds me of a flooded engine, that takes some time to get RPMs back then runs great once clear. If it wasn't for the rough idle I would almost think the throttle system was broken.
How should limp mode work? (if that is what it is doing)
When it returned to idle, the throttle appeared unresponsive for several seconds, then without warning it took off, almost left me behind.
When it returned to idle, the throttle appeared unresponsive for several seconds, then without warning it took off, almost left me behind.
I just saw this thread http://www.seadoospark.org/forum/290-sea-doo-spark-troubleshooting/4874-check-engine-when-hitting-wave.html
So I'm going to check the battery connectionthat this user found.
So I'm going to check the battery connectionthat this user found.
loose battery connections can cause all kinds of running issues and ecm issues, check cable connections not just at the battery but the other end of the cable as well, check the ground cable at the block also, it could be a number of things that can cause your issue, the limp home mode will basically run normal just limited to engine rpm, press the throttle all you want but its going to limit you in rpm and not be as responsive but it will run smooth, it sounds like it running rich or flooded for you, maybe an injector issue, if it is related to a Map sensor it could be an air leak like I said before, air leaks can be hard to find, as for running ok from a restart when you shut it off it starts out again assuming everything is ok, it may take a few minutes of running for the ecm to gather enough info to realize something is wrong or with a map sensor a vacuum leak may not be present until you go over a certain rpm for a certain amount of time before it draws enough air through the air box for the leak to be apparentI just saw this thread http://www.seadoospark.org/forum/290-sea-doo-spark-troubleshooting/4874-check-engine-when-hitting-wave.html
So I'm going to check the battery connectionthat this user found.
So the Battery was loose after all this. I have not yet run it, but the positive cable was very loose, and the negative was a little loose also.
edited too add, Thank you Wrench for the extra details about the vacuum system. I appreciate your time. I hope this is the fix and I don't have to dive that deep into it.
edited too add, Thank you Wrench for the extra details about the vacuum system. I appreciate your time. I hope this is the fix and I don't have to dive that deep into it.
No problem, good luck on your next ride!So the Battery was loose after all this. I have not yet run it, but the positive cable was very loose, and the negative was a little loose also.
edited too add, Thank you Wrench for the extra details about the vacuum system. I appreciate your time. I hope this is the fix and I don't have to dive that deep into it.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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