SeaDoo Spark Forum banner

41 - 60 of 88 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Fits onto a 1" hose so that the inside diameter is exactly the same and waterflow will not be restricted. I removed rear cover behind seat, loosened front hose clamp, pulled hose out from behind, installed valve, then shoved hose back through front behind, and finally reconnected hose up front. Make sense?
Richie,
I'm going to tackle this job but not sure which panel you removed. Do you mean
under the seat or the body color panel in back of seat. If it is the body panel I can't see how you did it without taking everything apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
I gave that some consideration but in light of the fact that I installed a flush hose successfully without Ibr removal I decided to leave well enough alone. Keep in mind that the flush port expels water when the ski is on.you can't block the port or you overheat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Did anyone figure out what panel richie is talking about? I also can't see how to do this without taking the body apart completely. I understand how he is explaining to make the cut and install the valve but dont want to have to take the top off if i dont have to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Yes. He loosened a few central body screws in the back and then removed the color body panel in back of the seat which is wedged in the body panel. The 2 shiny plastic caps in back also need to be removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I think those from sears are a good idea. I have the shark bite valve, just haven't pulled the top off to look at installing it yet. I'm nervous about the weight of it, and reaching it while sitting on the ski. Those pliers would have to be long. I have a pair of needle nose vise grips and tried to reach them back there, while standing next to the ski.. no go. Doing any of this while on the ski will be very difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Hello everyone. New PWC and spark owner. Seems like a lot of maintenance on these sparks.. My head is spinning with all this information. Anyway someone recommended this as a solution to the clamp problem. Thoughts?

Sears.com

OR

Amazon.com: hose pinch pliers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-BRP-Sea-Doo-OEM-Hose-Pincher-Tool-295000076-/110956570404
This the Sea Doo Hose pincher I had for the RXT and 13 Other Sea Doos!
I NEVER Once needed it or Used it! In the Extremely rare occurrence you need a Tow you would have to be on shore (Unless your Hudini) to attach this clamp. People generally don,t tow you like your a waterskier going 30 MPH. A tow at 5-6 MPH is like going through a wake zone and you would not need a Clamp because the inlet water pressure would Not be Great enough to do any damage.
The maintenance on the Spark is Bare Minimum compared to 2 Strokes. If you don,t ride in salt water ALL you have to really do is Change the Oil and Filter after 100 hours or 1 year (Whichever comes first?) You have to winterize Any ski per the owners manual.
I don,t even carry a clamp on my Spark and go 30 miles down river each ride because I,m not worried about it.
The Main thing a New Jet Skier ca do is make sure their in deep enough water before they gun the engine because Sucking up Junk is the Main $$$ for Newcomers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
you need to get a 1" shark bite brass ball valve from home depot. cut the line exactly where the arrow is pointing and install the shutoff valve.
i use mine as a dinghy and tow at 30knots. i use a 75' tow line and it works great. this keeps water from filling the cylinder head.
I popped the top off the other day to zip tie the wiring harness that was rubbing against the engine and blowing fuses. While I was in there, I installed the valve. Was very easy. Just cut off the hose and trimmed it down a bit to make room for the valve. Stuck the valve on and used worm screw clamps to clamp the hose to the valve. Put a few zip ties on the hose to secure it to keep valve from bouncing. Laid the top back on an reached in to work the valve. Tried it both on and off the ski and was able to reach it without much problem. I'm not a very mechanically inclined guy and was worried about doing this, even had some second thoughts about doing it but the ski is still working as normal on the water so I guess I didn't screw it up. Haven't towed the ski yet but if I do I'll let you know. Thanks Richie89
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
We need to know the Inner diameter of the hose your going to put it in? Could be 1/2, garden hoses can be 5/8 or 3/4 and there is a 1 inch version.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Clamping water intake hose will towing

On page 72 of the manual it talks about clamping the water supply hose inside the engine compartment to keep water from accumulating in the exhaust system which will enter the engine and cause damage. This hose is the same intake hose you use when you flushing the Seadoo. If you have a flushing unit installed, all you need is a plug that will screw in where you screw in the hose when you flush the unit. This will do the same thing as clamping the hose, preventing water getting into the exhaust system while the engine is not running. Same reason they tell you to start the engine first before turning the water on when you flush it. Installing the plug seem to be easier than trying to pull off the side panel and sticking your hand in where the engine is hot and could cause you injury. If water has not entered the engine/bildge area, I don't don't see how water can get in the hose to the exhaust, unless the exhaust is either at or below water level, then I could see how it could. Just my opinion for what it’s worth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
On page 72 of the manual it talks about clamping the water supply hose inside the engine compartment to keep water from accumulating in the exhaust system which will enter the engine and cause damage. This hose is the same intake hose you use when you flushing the Seadoo. If you have a flushing unit installed, all you need is a plug that will screw in where you screw in the hose when you flush the unit. This will do the same thing as clamping the hose, preventing water getting into the exhaust system while the engine is not running. Same reason they tell you to start the engine first before turning the water on when you flush it. Installing the plug seem to be easier than trying to pull off the side panel and sticking your hand in where the engine is hot and could cause you injury. If water has not entered the engine/bildge area, I don't don't see how water can get in the hose to the exhaust, unless the exhaust is either at or below water level, then I could see how it could. Just my opinion for what it’s worth.
The flush unit is connected to the exhaust outlet hose, the inlet hose (hose to be clamped) is inside the jet pump where water is forced to the exhaust system manifold. So closing the flush unit won't gonna work. The only guaranteed way to prevent water through the exhaust system during towing is clamping the hose.
Maybe the negative pressure in the exhaust outlet will prevent most of the water to go back in the engine, but it's risk.

Hope it helps, and sorry for the bad english, i'm from Brazil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
The flush unit is connected to the exhaust outlet hose, the inlet hose (hose to be clamped) is inside the jet pump where water is forced to the exhaust system manifold. So closing the flush unit won't gonna work. The only guaranteed way to prevent water through the exhaust system during towing is clamping the hose.
Maybe the negative pressure in the exhaust outlet will prevent most of the water to go back in the engine, but it's risk.

Hope it helps, and sorry for the bad english, i'm from Brazil.
\


I Agree!! The Spark is back flushed. The hose that feeds the Front of the exhaust manifold is at 11 O,clock on the back pump (Just to the left of the top of pump)- It feeds the front of the manifold by pressure of the water rushing through the pump and the water drains out the Flush hose when your riding.
The process is in reverse when you flush the ski!! ( Thus the term "Back Flushing?") LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
I looked in the left side panel at about 5 oclock and I think I saw the hose to be clamped. There is no way I could reach it with my hand let alone put a clamp on it. D a m n, I bought a good $17 metal clamp set online too. How in the world do they expect you to get to that to clamp it should you need a tow. They should have made a little panel that comes off next to it for emergencies.


edupsousa - sorry for your english? I dont think anyone in my city can speak english that well LOL. I can say something in portuguese but its naughty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
BTMG - towing it in the water if / when it becomes disabled. it seems like far too many people have been dead in the water far too soon.

NEO - ya a couple guys on here made DIY flush kits and posted about it in some of the first threads on the boards.

I think SeaDoo should come out when an amendment for the manual that says " hey just kidding about how to clamp the hose, April fool, we know you couldn't get in there even if you had baby hands and long arms as thin as a thumb. here is the easy way to do it "

RICHIE - that's a good idea. Shut off to keep the water out. I had to do something similar on my 49cc scooter to do the opposite ( keep the gas flowing to the carb) cheap chinese scooters come with a petcock that attaches to the gas tank and that attaches to a hose down to the carb. Sometimes they randomly just decide not to work and then you have no gas flow. I replaced my petcock, same problems so I decided to get rid of the petcock and new hoses and couplings and a shut off valve in the line. I have to turn it on and off when I start it but no big deal. Its better than the days of being almost stranded on the side of the road injecting gas into the fuel lines & carb with an empty pointy hair dye bottle to make it home. I just had to cut a hole in the bottom of the under seat trunk to access it. So.. im all about mods that make things easier. I think people who make videos of how to deal with Spark problems would make some money on yotube for getting a ton of hits if they set up youtube monetary accounts. Obviously everyone on the boards would be thrilled too :)

This may have been mentioned above but I only skimmed through past responses in this thread...

the hose that is supposed to be clamped for towing.... where is the end of it ( where water goes in ) and if you can't reach it from outside of the ski, can it be extended & secured to where you can without it interfering with any moving parts and then just plug the end instead of clamping it? or clamp the end I guess if you already own clamps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Clamp water intake hose before towing

The manual is very specific in saying that you must clamp the water intake hose before towing. I cannot see how this can be done properly. It's next to impossible to reach in that it's about 15 inches in back of the left-hand opening. I did buy several different clamps and tried it out with a garden hose. There was still water intrusion on the hose. Can't see how this works. If the object is that No water gets through, even if I was able to install the clamp, which looks to be incredibly difficult , I can't see how it would totally stop the water from going back into the engine.
Your right, after looking at inside the panel (pic attached) it's close to near impossible to attach any type of clasp, vice-grips, or whatever to the hose with the limited abunt of room that you have to work with, plus your in the water not above the opening even to see anything and any other place for that matter. The suggestions I've read so far was to install a valve of some type. Brass, plastice or something simular. I agree with scenrio. But until my warranty expire in 23 months, if I make any unauthorized modifications, it could void the warranty. So I'm not installing a valve until then. Plus what I've read so far here on the forum about company being such a tight azz about forfilling thier part of the bargin on the warranty, I'm not taking the chances until the warranty expires. Plus I agree with another forum member that if you tow it real slow, it won't force water back into the exhaust and then to the engine. Maybe that is why Seadoo says not to tow faster than 13mph. I would tow it as slow as possible. But hopefully I'll never be in a situation where I have tow it. So far so good this summer.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
916 Posts
ya I saw that and it seems like a great idea, just looking for other alternatives as well. and i agree about the warranty. I have 10 months left on mine and id be more apt to make mods like that as well after its up AND once I already have the top off. I'm just wondering where this hose ends that we need to clamp to tow and can we make it end outside the ski where it can be reached :) If i had to have it towed at this point I'd agree that having it towed overly slow (idle speed) would be the best option if you can't clamp it. So far so good for me too. Knock on plastic! :) LOL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I plan on doing the shut off valve mod here soon...Only question I have is has anyone that have installed a 1" valve checked to make sure it doesn't modify water pressure in any way?
 
41 - 60 of 88 Posts
Top