So far all I have experienced is the rusting impeller from the salt water, and a minor crack in my handlebars. (Hasnt developed into a major one yet). Most plastic wear rings will be damaged from a foregin material being shot through it so not sure if we can count that.
Compiling List Of Spark Problems. If You Have Had One Please Post Here
Hey guys I have been hearing about problems Spark owners have been having. I'm not surprised that there are kinks to work out since this is the first year on the market. Some of them common, some of them I'm wondering if its due to user error / not being careful.
I'm asking you guys to post here if you have had a problem with your Spark.
I want to compile a list of problems for myself and maybe you will want to also , so that when my Spark has its first check up I can ask the mechanic to take a peek at the items listed. Also good to be aware of issues others are having to keep an eye on them.
I have heard of some of these issues and am quoting this list from something someone posted on another site but im just using it to start the list off.
I'm asking you guys to post here if you have had a problem with your Spark.
I want to compile a list of problems for myself and maybe you will want to also , so that when my Spark has its first check up I can ask the mechanic to take a peek at the items listed. Also good to be aware of issues others are having to keep an eye on them.
I have heard of some of these issues and am quoting this list from something someone posted on another site but im just using it to start the list off.
The Handlebars are plastic and are cracking or breaking in half on a few of the Sparks.
The plastic wear rings shatter when a rock comes through the pump, even a small piece of wood will crack it.
The props are digging into the wear rings at an alarming rate, it's like the bottom of the wear ring is getting 5 times as much rubbing as the top. Something is not lining up the pump area or there is some flexing going on.
The props are rusting when you use them in salt water and are not made with quality metal, I have seen a few that are banged up big time after just one rock went through the pump.
The sides of the hull are weak points, if you hit a dock or bump into a friend's ski at low speed it is making huge cracks.
There is an electrical issue that is happening as the wires rub against the engine block and the wires get exposed, blowing a 15 amp fuse in the fuse box.
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Now I gotta check my impeller tomorow for rust lol. I only have salt water here but rinse it thouroly and flush after ever ride. My only problem is that my handle bar support is cracked in half. 6 hours on the meter. Riding was very conservative for a jetski. Was a bit choppy on the water so could have done it in. But a 1ft chop should NOT be cracking bars like it is
I ride the River (Non Salt) and after 9.5 hours have No Rust on impellor and No deterioration of the wear ring at All.
If you run over crap you will pay with any ski?
I Took of top and zip tied the suspect wires so they Do Not cause a problem-Its Not needed to take top off to do this but makes it easier!
For every problem you hear on a Forum, Hundreds have No Problem- Happy people do not complain?
If you run over crap you will pay with any ski?
I Took of top and zip tied the suspect wires so they Do Not cause a problem-Its Not needed to take top off to do this but makes it easier!
For every problem you hear on a Forum, Hundreds have No Problem- Happy people do not complain?
Wake skater72,So far all I have experienced is the rusting impeller from the salt water, and a minor crack in my handlebars. (Hasnt developed into a major one yet). Most plastic wear rings will be damaged from a foregin material being shot through it so not sure if we can count that.
A "minor" crack in the handle bars is like a "little" pregnant.better report it and get it replaced as a warranty item right away or you are risking serious injury in light of the other reports.
As for my personal experience 35 hours on salt water and not a single issue.
I have been sucking debris into the unit and it stops the power and the manufacture refuses to repair it and these sparks being closed loop are not suppose to suck in saltwater or debris!
2Up/60 HP..breaking in on small local lake, it's shallow until outa the channel, I "flush" after every use (3 so far). 2.5~ hours only
only issues are "body related". It's dry inside and seems to run fine, fluid levels same as delivered, intake clean, inpeller looks new - as it should
1) LH access panel - 3 tabs broke, so I'm duct taping it, when will BRP send me a new one?
2) The lower right corner Body protection piece (the optional scrape protectors) keeps popping off, dealer will need to resecure w/ more 3M adhesive and aligning tabs better is my guess.
only issues are "body related". It's dry inside and seems to run fine, fluid levels same as delivered, intake clean, inpeller looks new - as it should
1) LH access panel - 3 tabs broke, so I'm duct taping it, when will BRP send me a new one?
2) The lower right corner Body protection piece (the optional scrape protectors) keeps popping off, dealer will need to resecure w/ more 3M adhesive and aligning tabs better is my guess.
You are misinformed. The ski has to suck in water. That's what drives the propulsion.I have been sucking debris into the unit and it stops the power and the manufacture refuses to repair it and these sparks being closed loop are not suppose to suck in saltwater or debris!
Zero issues. Had mine since December.
I think you are referring to the cooling sytem not sucking debris or saltwater, "that's" the closed loop referred to. The owners manual is pretty clear about water depths to run the engine ( when in shallow doubt - especiallly only at idle speed ) and "shaking" the unit as well as inspecting the intake. The latter is really easy to do if you trailer, thus you can check the impellar health visually. when in doubt, shut it off and jump out. I carry a 25 ft mooring rope for that purpose and to stay off the "beachen" path as musch as practical. -You may want to look into a stainless wear ring though I'm unsure if that'll put other parts in more risk, it should take more debris without failure. Others here can comment on the ring with experience.You are misinformed. The ski has to suck in water. That's what drives the propulsion.
Guys the closed loop refers to the engine cooling system, doesnt anyone learn about the the things they own, instead of pumping water from the jet unit through the engine to cool, the sparks have a heat exchanger on the left of your inlet, its in the owners manual!. I wouldnt warranty a unit with stuff sucked up it either as its a user issue
20 hrs on mine and no issues just need more top end ... lol
I don't think the reason for this thread was to say everything is ok or debate issues. I think it was set up to list known problems that you should keep a watch for signs of it happening to your spark.
good info.I Took of top and zip tied the suspect wires so they Do Not cause a problem-Its Not needed to take top off to do this but makes it easier!
PPIJAY - Yes indeed
but good to hear that others are issue free JeffinwesternWA is right - the " shaking it " is on page 70 of the manual which I have been randomly picking through. Jeff the two issues on yours should DEF be covered by warranty nobody should have to ducktape a brand new ski.
4 hours on mine, about a tank of fuel spent. Folled around with the ski alot.
No issues so far.
I think people are over reacting with the handlebars and hull cases. You just have to be carefull with the ski and all will be fine. It's plastic, it will crack easier, but if we are more cautious, the chances of having problems will be smaller.
regards
No issues so far.
I think people are over reacting with the handlebars and hull cases. You just have to be carefull with the ski and all will be fine. It's plastic, it will crack easier, but if we are more cautious, the chances of having problems will be smaller.
regards
Agree, but, dealer "thinks" BRP will mail me a new cover, so in the meantime, tape it isgood info.
PPIJAY - Yes indeed
JeffinwesternWA is right - the " shaking it " is on page 70 of the manual which I have been randomly picking through. Jeff the two issues on yours should DEF be covered by warranty nobody should have to ducktape a brand new ski.
, if not in couple weks, he'll order one.BTW, where is my build date on the machine??
Anybody got apic or specific description of the wires to ziptie. Not gonnna pull my top till after the season but, if I can zip those wires now...
Any manufacturer of skis will refuse to warranty damages from you sucking **** up.I have been sucking debris into the unit and it stops the power and the manufacture refuses to repair it and these sparks being closed loop are not suppose to suck in saltwater or debris!
+1 for learning a little bit about a ski before you buy it, or in the least after you own it. You already spend 5K+ on it, why not have a working knowledge of it to help protect your investment.Guys the closed loop refers to the engine cooling system, doesnt anyone learn about the the things they own, instead of pumping water from the jet unit through the engine to cool, the sparks have a heat exchanger on the left of your inlet, its in the owners manual!. I wouldnt warranty a unit with stuff sucked up it either as its a user issue
While I understand these issues are most likely the "minority" in the grand scheme of things, it stinks being one of the minority. We haven't even made the first payment on our Spark and it's already been back to the dealership twice. I want to love it, believe me I am trying! But on the other hand, part of me wants to get rid of this thing before these issues become common knowledge.
I have 2 and each has 8.4 hours and no issues. I live in salt water, so I need to check for rust but I flush after every ride. I have sucked up something in both of my skis but a little throttle play usually shoots out whatever it was, then they run fine. I'm taking it in to the dealer after my 10 hours to have them make sure everything is good!
Skennedy71 - my dealer told me the first check up should be after the 10hr break in period, i asked BRP they said break in period is after 5hrs first check up is due at 50hrs. it cant hurt to do it before but it seems some dealers are saying the first check is due before its really due.
AlSpark - ya that sucks. im sorry to hear all the bs you have been through. id be super hated since if i need mine to go to the dealership they charge $75 each way. (I have a marina spot and no car or trailer) i heard this thing was 5 yrs in the making, they should have had a bunch of these test driven on the water for a year to work out these kinks.
Also when the dealership is doing the initial inspection they should be looking for these problems like wires that could be rubbing on the engine and shorting out.
Jeff - call BRP I have those guys on speed dial. LOL! Option 3 after the french girl recording says her thing. (by the way I love the way she says the letter W when stating the website. 888-272-9222 here is a link to the pics for where to ziptie the wires. http://www.seadoospark.org/forum/se...own-spark-i-think-its-important-you-read.html
AlSpark - ya that sucks. im sorry to hear all the bs you have been through. id be super hated since if i need mine to go to the dealership they charge $75 each way. (I have a marina spot and no car or trailer) i heard this thing was 5 yrs in the making, they should have had a bunch of these test driven on the water for a year to work out these kinks.
Also when the dealership is doing the initial inspection they should be looking for these problems like wires that could be rubbing on the engine and shorting out.
Jeff - call BRP I have those guys on speed dial. LOL! Option 3 after the french girl recording says her thing. (by the way I love the way she says the letter W when stating the website. 888-272-9222 here is a link to the pics for where to ziptie the wires. http://www.seadoospark.org/forum/se...own-spark-i-think-its-important-you-read.html
1 - 20 of 89 Posts
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