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Before storage, it is recommended that you remove the spark plugs, spray lube in the cylinders, then crank the engine to distribute the lube. There is an easy way to do this without refitting the central body and reconnecting the steering electrical connector.

Locate the starter solenoid and disconnect the coil cable. Attach a clip lead to each of the terminals in the solenoid connector. Be sure not to short the two connections together. Connect one lead to the negative battery terminal (polarity is not important). To crank the engine, touch the other lead to the battery positive terminal for a second or two. Of course fuel and spark are disabled as desired.
 

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I never bothered spraying the oil down the cylinders. I see that as more of a long term storage issue. I can't see too much corrosion building up in a short 4 month stint. I have tractors with cast blocks that sit for double that and fire up like they were parked their the night before. The biggest thing will be making sure all the water is out of the exhaust.
 

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The other thing I do to crank it over instead of using the test leads is just shorting a screw driver across the two solenoid lugs. its a little quicker then finding test leads and then making sure they aren't shorting together inside.
 

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The other thing I do to crank it over instead of using the test leads is just shorting a screw driver across the two solenoid lugs. its a little quicker then finding test leads and then making sure they aren't shorting together inside.
Before storage, it is recommended that you remove the spark plugs, spray lube in the cylinders, then crank the engine to distribute the lube. There is an easy way to do this without refitting the central body and reconnecting the steering electrical connector.

Locate the starter solenoid and disconnect the coil cable. Attach a clip lead to each of the terminals in the solenoid connector. Be sure not to short the two connections together. Connect one lead to the negative battery terminal (polarity is not important). To crank the engine, touch the other lead to the battery positive terminal for a second or two. Of course fuel and spark are disabled as desired.
So what's the best way to disable fuel and spark with the central body removed?
 

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A safety feature is if you hold the the accelerator lever on full and crank it will not start just crank
I don't know if it still sends fuel
Maybe an easier option


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Thanks Xdrian. The issue is that in cold climates, it's recommended that you remove the spark plugs, spray XPS directly into the cylinders, and then crank the engine to fog the cylinders. The manual recommends exactly what you said, but this requires the very cumbersome step of putting the central body back on, reattaching electrical, removing central body, reinstall spark plugs, then (again) replace central body. It's a ridiculous process.
 

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You could spray down the air box and get some in

You can take the handlebars section off 4 bolts two in glovebox and two on the arms so gives access to everything and working
Or move to Australia ride all year round sorry


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