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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

New member to the site today. Been creeping on you all for the past few months :D

Picked up 2 new Sparks from the dealer on Saturday ( 2UP HO + IBR & 3UP HO + IBR) - put them in the water yesterday and they ran like a top for the first 1.5 hours. Tons of fun as expected from what I have read on this site. At 1:35 on the 3UP there was a beep - a quick flash of the engine logo - I assume seadoo's version of CEL - and it died. Could not restart it.

After a very long and painful tow back to the dock I put it on the trailer and have the following observations.

1. IBR gate is in the up postion - default appears to be down when off based on what I see on the other machine
2. When lanyard is on and start / stop button depressed once, the relay (in the fuse box - not the starter solenoid) produces a continuous "tick tick tick" -
3. Swapped relays between machines and the 3UP causes either relay to tick - so it is not the relay.
4. Discovered that the 10A fuse labeled "ACC" is blown but there is no information as to what that is protecting.
5. Connections on the battery appear to be tight.
6. Says "limp home" but will not start or attempt to turn over - no click from the starter solenoid.

Called Sea-Doo customer service (not sure why they call it that after speaking with them). All the dealers within 100 miles are closed Monday, we are on vacation and trying to get back in the water. They refuse to let me talk to someone in tech support or put me through to a supervisor after politely asking if I could speak with one.

Has anyone had similar issues or possibly know what the 10A "acc" fuse is protecting? I could not see any obvious nicks in wiring or something else that might cause a short but as I am sure your are all aware visibility it limited without removing the top.

I would prefer not to have to drive a substantial distance to a dealer and lose some undetermined amount of use time during vacation so would be willing to attempt fixing myself. I am moderately mechanically / electrically inclined. Multiple boat owner but first PWC's ever.

Appreciate any advice or suggestions.

Buzz
 

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Hi,

New member to the site today. Been creeping on you all for the past few months :D

Picked up 2 new Sparks from the dealer on Saturday ( 2UP HO + IBR & 3UP HO + IBR) - put them in the water yesterday and they ran like a top for the first 1.5 hours. Tons of fun as expected from what I have read on this site. At 1:35 on the 3UP there was a beep - a quick flash of the engine logo - I assume seadoo's version of CEL - and it died. Could not restart it.

After a very long and painful tow back to the dock I put it on the trailer and have the following observations.

1. IBR gate is in the up postion - default appears to be down when off based on what I see on the other machine
2. When lanyard is on and start / stop button depressed once, the relay (in the fuse box - not the starter solenoid) produces a continuous "tick tick tick" -
3. Swapped relays between machines and the 3UP causes either relay to tick - so it is not the relay.
4. Discovered that the 10A fuse labeled "ACC" is blown but there is no information as to what that is protecting.
5. Connections on the battery appear to be tight.
6. Says "limp home" but will not start or attempt to turn over - no click from the starter solenoid.

Called Sea-Doo customer service (not sure why they call it that after speaking with them). All the dealers within 100 miles are closed Monday, we are on vacation and trying to get back in the water. They refuse to let me talk to someone in tech support or put me through to a supervisor after politely asking if I could speak with one.

Has anyone had similar issues or possibly know what the 10A "acc" fuse is protecting? I could not see any obvious nicks in wiring or something else that might cause a short but as I am sure your are all aware visibility it limited without removing the top.

I would prefer not to have to drive a substantial distance to a dealer and lose some undetermined amount of use time during vacation so would be willing to attempt fixing myself. I am moderately mechanically / electrically inclined. Multiple boat owner but first PWC's ever.

Appreciate any advice or suggestions.

Buzz
ACC Protects the CAPS Sensor (Camshaft Positioning sensor for ignition, Its required to run the engine) No idea why it would be labelled ACC since ACC in my mind makes me think accessory.

Why the fuse would blow... I'm not sure unless you have a shorting sensor, but thats kind of odd to have with only 1.5 hours on it.

(I got this info from the Shop manual)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response! I assumed (incorrectly) that it was Accessory. Do you know where the CAPS sensor is located or if it is visible without cracking open the hull? If it is a failed sensor I will have to wait for service but if it is a wiring issue I am hoping to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. Cannot see any visible nicks in the wires running up to the sensor, although a little hard to fully inspect without removing all of the shrink tube around the wires as it is only possible to inspect what is visible (I do not want to start cutting shrink tube and have the dealer blame me for a problem underneath). Hopefully the dealer can look at it today.
 

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I put my new spark in the water yesterday for the first time. I didn't make it as far as you did. only ran for 1 hour. It died while riding then said Limp Home mode like yours. would not crank except if the throttle is held wide open. still won't hit or try to start. I am on vacation too, like you, about 17 hour drive from home. my dealer called the local dealer but no luck, he said they are a week and a half behind so they wouldn't even do anything for me. Mine also makes the clicking sound when the lanyard is installed. I can't see any loose connections, battery cables seem tight. I don't know what else to do, just thought I would let you know you are not alone. If you do find a quick resolution, let me know. otherwise I have to wait to get home to take it back where I bought it. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Have you tried popping in a new fuse yet?
I did last night and it started right up as normal. Deciding that I don't want to do anything that could possibly void my warranty, I turned it right back off again and took it to the dealer today. (I want them to diagnose why the fuse blew in the first place - short in the wire somewhere?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I put my new spark in the water yesterday for the first time. I didn't make it as far as you did. only ran for 1 hour. It died while riding then said Limp Home mode like yours. would not crank except if the throttle is held wide open. still won't hit or try to start. I am on vacation too, like you, about 17 hour drive from home. my dealer called the local dealer but no luck, he said they are a week and a half behind so they wouldn't even do anything for me. Mine also makes the clicking sound when the lanyard is installed. I can't see any loose connections, battery cables seem tight. I don't know what else to do, just thought I would let you know you are not alone. If you do find a quick resolution, let me know. otherwise I have to wait to get home to take it back where I bought it. thanks.
Glad to hear that my Spark's longevity is over 50% longer than yours. Maybe mine was made on a Thursday and yours on a Friday. I actually forgot to post that mine would crank if I hit the start button AND held full throttle at the same time but it would not start - same as yours. If I hit just the start button by itself it would do nothing. I did this while I was on my long tow back to the boat launch so I could not actually hear if the solenoid was engaging but hitting the start button without also squeezing the throttle would not make any attempt to turn over. I am betting 50 bucks you blew your 10A fuse (I can give you the address to mail it to or you could also paypal it to me if you prefer).

I spoke with the dealer I purchased it from this morning. He said that the 10A fuse protects the starter and solenoid (different that what someone else read in a shop manual - they said CAPS sensor - maybe it does both?!?)

Same drill as you, I have taken it to the dealer nearest me today but they are really backlogged. Said he would look at it and call this afternoon but I did not hear back from them. I will call in the morning.

My gut feeling is this. There is a short somewhere in the starting circuit. I believe that mine probably shorted as I was making a tight turn / spin (the wiring harness is flopping around pretty loose in there). It blew the 10A fuse (conveniently the only one they do not give you a spare of) and shut off the machine. Even though it says "limp home" you cannot start because there is no spark - pun not intended. I would replace the 10A fuse if blown - duct tape the wiring harness in a way that it will not flop around and hopefully be able to enjoy the rest of your vacation.

Not sure how familiar you are with electrical circuits, but I would definitely not be tempted to put a fuse higher than 10A in as you would probably void your warranty. You may need several of them as you might blow a few trying to figure out how to duct tape the wiring harness as you may short out again in the process - probably a bit of trial and error.

I would be very curious to find out how you make out. If the dealer cannot diagnose mine within a reasonable time I will be picking it up and trying the exact same thing myself. There are a number of electrical connectors.

Trust you can get back on the water soon!

ps. Just curious if you have IBR? My IBR gate was left up when it died and wondering if the IBR is protected by the same fuse.
 

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if your battery cable is tight on the battery, check the other end. mine was loose, along with the cable right beside it. I checked my 10 amp fuse and it was blown like yours. I replaced the fuse and tightened the cables and it started right up just like normal. I haven't had it on the water yet but it seems to be fine.
But, there are a lot of comments about bad connections from the battery causing them to quit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
if your battery cable is tight on the battery, check the other end. mine was loose, along with the cable right beside it. I checked my 10 amp fuse and it was blown like yours. I replaced the fuse and tightened the cables and it started right up just like normal. I haven't had it on the water yet but it seems to be fine.
Thanks for the quick response. I just checked my other new spark that is still here - I can trace the positive battery cable to a terminal beside the fuse box but I can not see where the negative goes. Was it the positive terminal (nut) beside the fuse box that was loose?
 

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yes, the positive from the battery up to the fuse box and also the cable right next to it. both have large red insulators to cover the nuts. one is really hard to work with because the rubber boot covers up the nut. I took the spark out today and it ran good all day. when I get home I am going to go over all the bolted electric connections to make sure all are tight. might also try and fix any places wires might rub on something hard. Looks like that happens some and causes problems too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yes, the positive from the battery up to the fuse box and also the cable right next to it. both have large red insulators to cover the nuts. one is really hard to work with because the rubber boot covers up the nut. I took the spark out today and it ran good all day. when I get home I am going to go over all the bolted electric connections to make sure all are tight. might also try and fix any places wires might rub on something hard. Looks like that happens some and causes problems too.
Thanks for the follow up. Ours is sitting at the dealer still. Said they cannot find why the fuse is blowing. They said they have found 1 connection that was not loose but it was not tight either - I gather that they could not tighten more by hand but were able to tighten more with a tool - relayed from the tech to the service manager to my wife so something might have been lost in translation. They have the deck off and say they have inspected thoroughly. I get it back tomorrow and hopefully I will be as fortunate as you. I will update again after running it in the water for a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update

Thanks for the follow up. Ours is sitting at the dealer still. Said they cannot find why the fuse is blowing. They said they have found 1 connection that was not loose but it was not tight either - I gather that they could not tighten more by hand but were able to tighten more with a tool - relayed from the tech to the service manager to my wife so something might have been lost in translation. They have the deck off and say they have inspected thoroughly. I get it back tomorrow and hopefully I will be as fortunate as you. I will update again after running it in the water for a bit.
Back in the water today after the dealer tightening all of the terminals. Ran 4 hours with no problems. Hopefully that was it. Now have extra 10A fuses in on board just in case I need to crawl home.
 

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My 2up had the exact same thing happen last weekend. As I am reading everyone's stories, I am sitting here haphazardly excited that it could be such a stupidly simple issue!! I am going to pull the fuses and check it out, I just hate to be disappoined and get my hopes up for a $2 fix haha! I literally just finished a custom rear exit exhaust and a few other fun mods, had it out for less than an hour before it wouldn't start up again.
 
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