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I found a relevant thread for my question using the search feature, but it was in a weird part of the forum, so I wanted to post it to this forum because I think it's more likely to get seen.

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I am about to winterize my Sparks, and I want to replace the plugs as well as this is the end of year 2.

The parts guy told me not to put the new plugs in after I fog the engine, because next year when I start it up, it will foul the new plugs.

I am going to follow his advice, which means removing the top when I service them, and then removing the tops again next spring when I get them out of storage to replace the plugs (after I run them for a few minutes to remove the fogging oil).

I guess my question is what is the difference between new and old plugs with regards to fogging the engine? If you didn't plan on replacing the plugs, wouldn't you foul your plugs when you start it up in the spring, regardless of whether they're new or old plugs? Therefore, any time you fog the engine for winter, you better have new plugs on hand for the spring?

I hope I'm making sense, it just seems like fogging the engine leads to bad plugs, which leads to replacing plugs every year.
 

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I removed all spark plugs and sprayed fogging oil into the holes, then turned it over. Sprayed more oil into the holes, turned over a couple seconds. Then i installed the new spark plugs and wont start it before next season. Hope that works...


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No need to fog for a winter storage...

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I agree. But however I could see if you were going to fog it I would want to change the plugs after. The plugs weren't designed to burn oil, they may burn it just fine but any residue may affect performance.

This will be my second winter with the Sparks and I again will not be fogging them. I have stored many engines over summer/winter depending on the application and have never fogged a single one. They all start up one pull/crank after storage and never seen a life shortage.


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I guess it all depends on where you live, But I personally can't see it hurting anything other than lightly carboning the plugs when you go to burn it off. I don't see the harm in taking a few extra seconds to remove the chance of rust or corrosion building on the cylinder wall.

We have a lil 4.5 Johnson outboard that was stored in a crappy steel shed and it was never fogged. Sometimes sat for a year before it was started again... The compression isn't what is used to be, even after very light use. Probably ring damage.



Long and short... Fog it or not, it's all your choice.
 

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That would be true if it wasn't an aluminum block. That's the main reason I don't bother, probably over 80% of the engine is aluminium so not too much can rust.


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That would be true if it wasn't an aluminum block. That's the main reason I don't bother, probably over 80% of the engine is aluminium so not too much can rust.


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The cylinders have iron sleeves in most, if not all, aluminum block engines. The cylinder can rust, that is what fogging aims to protect. Losing metal to rust on the rings or iron cylinder sleeves causes quick compression loss.
 

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From what I read these don't have sleeves. All of the aluminum block engines I work on have no sleeves as well. In fact I've yet to even see a aluminum engine with sleeves, that's old technology. I know that might not mean much but I am an engine specialist for an automotive dealer.


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The cylinders have iron sleeves in most, if not all, aluminum block engines. The cylinder can rust, that is what fogging aims to protect. Losing metal to rust on the rings or iron cylinder sleeves causes quick compression loss.
the 900 Ace engine has an aluminum block but not sleeved, it has plated cylinders, some blocks do have sleeves in them also like the 4tec seadoo engine, valves and valve seats also need protection from rust, if it is stored somewhere it isn't getting condensation then it isn't something you need to worry about. You could also start it every so often as long as you remember to do it.
 

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the 900 Ace engine has an aluminum block but not sleeved, it has plated cylinders, some blocks do have sleeves in them also like the 4tec seadoo engine, valves and valve seats also need protection from rust, if it is stored somewhere it isn't getting condensation then it isn't something you need to worry about. You could also start it every so often as long as you remember to do it.
So what I'm getting from this is that the Rotax 900 Ace doesn't need to be fogged over the winter? I live in Michigan and it can get pretty chilly...
 

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The manual says to fog the engine. But in my opinion it doesn't need to be fogged. I have two and haven't fogged them last year and don't plan on fogging them this year. In my opinion the storage season isn't long enough to require the fogging, maybe if it was long term storage.


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I start them once a month for peace of mind but I don't think it is necessary. Mine are easy to get to so I just walk out start them let the. Idle for 20 seconds and shut them off.


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So what I'm getting from this is that the Rotax 900 Ace doesn't need to be fogged over the winter? I live in Michigan and it can get pretty chilly...
I think it has more to do with were it is stored than how long it is stored for, if it was in an insulated building were the temperatures didn't fluctuate too much then it would be fine not to fog it down but if there is condensation happening then i would definitely fog it, you don't want a valve getting corroded and then sticking on you or have a ring stick on a piston when you start it in the spring.
 

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The problem isn't the winter. Winter had the driest months of the year. The possible corrosion happens in the spring and fall where humidity levels are high. But like I mentioned, in my opinion winter is too short too worry about it.


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The problem isn't the winter. Winter had the driest months of the year. The possible corrosion happens in the spring and fall where humidity levels are high. But like I mentioned, in my opinion winter is too short too worry about it.


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yes, winter is drier, but my machines haven't been started now in two months and won't be started for another 5 or 6 months, and out of 7 to 8 months of them not running there will be 3 to 4 months that it will be freezing where they are stored so yes they won't be rusting in that time but there will also be 4 to 5 months where there would be condensation happening and corrosion, depending on what type of conditions it is stored in the effects will be relevant, 4 to 5 months is in my opinion plenty of time over years to cause corrosion damage that is easy to prevent. but then again that is just my opinion....
 

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Wrench4fun, I'll be storing it in a non-heated garage for the winter. We typically winterize at the beginning of November and de-winterize in May, so 6 months max.
if it is insulated the effects will be reduced but I would still fog it down, my thoughts are if the manufacturer thought it was ok not to do it they would't suggest that you do.
 

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What if I just fogged through the injector ports instead of in the spark plug ports? I assume that would be better than nothing? And if I did that, then the spark plugs wouldn't necessarily need to be replaced.

Can the spark plugs be changed, and can the engine be fogged, without removing the upper deck?
 
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