End of season maintennce questions...

19831 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Grant, Nov 21, 2014

JeffinWesternWA

Discussion Starter · Aug 28, 2014

Thinking to October, couple of thoughts from those who "know or have done"? (Yes, I've checked owners manual and shop manual...)

XPS Lubricant PN 293 600 016 ... Is there a "equivalent" in another brand available from national jobbers?
Oil filter bolts and locktight... Is locktight really needed? how about a new O ring?
Oil filter PN (unknown at moment)... is there an equivalent filter, perhaps from WIX, NAPA, etc., available at a national Jobber?
Oil PN 293 600 112 (full synthetic)... is there an eqivalent? thinking of using a FULL synthetic oil for 2 years and wondering if there is a 4 stroke oil available that meets specs...since my unit is garaged and synthetics are wonderful at not attracting condensation...I'm not considering passenger car motor oil meeting SN spec...

Of course I'll flush, rinse bilge, fill the tank w/ new fuel and an "over the counter" stabilizer, change teh oil/filter, attach a battery tender and wash/wax a few times over the winter and fully inspect. Rotate in the trailer spare tire and fill all 3 to 60 lbs, wash down the trailer and detail too...stored in dry warmish garage...

with just 30~ hours nothing major should be needed? Most of the maintenace schedule is "inpection" only...

Guess I'll call BRP after the season and see if my unit is part of any recall(s)?..I have not received ANY correspndence from BRP stating so (though I did get my engine compartment cover replaced)..

Been a fun unit and the 60HP base has been perfect for traveling w/ my 95 lb GF aboard, the small lakes and waters of Columbia river, more power/speed hasn't been needed/wanted at all..0

Used NO oil, starts/runs perfect. Only the side fender scrapers on RR corner coming loose and need auto body tape underneath to hold and the bilge plug stripping (once, more careful now at $12

have been problematic.

Appreciate the replys...

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1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Bug Stomper

· #2 · Aug 28, 2014

Question for you: What do you think about using Sea Foam in the tank instead of Stabil?

Your answers:
XPS lubricants/oil. Yes any marine grade oil will work. If this was a car I swap oil brands all the time. For my small engines I pretty much match the brands. For instance I would use XPS in my Seadoos. I use John Deere tractor oil in my JOhn Deere tractor. I've had plenty of instances where these things don't start when you want them to so one little thing I can eliminate is better for me.

I bet the locktite on the bolts for the winter is being used like an anti-sieze anti rust. Plus it ENSURES the bolts stay in the 1 million off chance should they come loose sitting in storage. New O-ring wouldn't hurt.

Oil filter. Yeah I think you can cross reference another brand but like the oil on my small engines, Suzuki GSXR600 in this example, I use a Suzuki filter.

JeffinWesternWA

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 28, 2014

Bug Stomper said:
Question for you: What do you think about using Sea Foam in the tank instead of Stabil?

Your answers:
XPS lubricants/oil. Yes any marine grade oil will work. If this was a car I swap oil brands all the time. For my small engines I pretty much match the brands. For instance I would use XPS in my Seadoos. I use John Deere tractor oil in my JOhn Deere tractor. I've had plenty of instances where these things don't start when you want them to so one little thing I can eliminate is better for me.

I bet the locktite on the bolts for the winter is being used like an anti-sieze anti rust. Plus it ENSURES the bolts stay in the 1 million off chance should they come loose sitting in storage. New O-ring wouldn't hurt.

Oil filter. Yeah I think you can cross reference another brand but like the oil on my small engines, Suzuki GSXR600 in this example, I use a Suzuki filter.

My use of seafoam has primarily been as a "cleaner" agent, particularly for an occasional CEL on cars and it has worked, I've had good luck w/ Stabil and plan on just buying it at Wal-Mart for teh Seadoo, I doubt at the number of hours we have that Seafoaming would do any good, can't be any buildup of gunk yet I hope! ?..

Do you have a substitute for the XPS lube spray (PN listed)? Or for a cross reference # on the oil filter? I think an O ring every OTHER change would be fine. Appreciate any follow up...

Sarge707

· #4 · Aug 29, 2014

FILTRE HUILE *FILTER-OIL
420956123
This the oil filter about $15.
I used Valvoline 5-40 Synthetic API SN at 20 hours and will again in later October when I,m done riding.

seaking

· #5 · Aug 29, 2014

Sarge707 said:
FILTRE HUILE *FILTER-OIL
420956123
This the oil filter about $15.
I used Valvoline 5-40 Synthetic API SN at 20 hours and will again in later October when I,m done riding.

Nice.
Any other oil brands you'd recommend?

Sarge707

· #6 · Aug 29, 2014

seaking said:
Nice.
Any other oil brands you'd recommend?

Any decent 5w40 oil with API SN is good.
You can buy a 6 pack on Amazon of Most Popular Synthetic oils from $45-50 with NO tax and free shipping!
Now if you buy it a quart at a time at Autozone for $9.99 and Tax you pay $63-64. Buy 6 pack at Amazon and save $13-18 Dollars?

JeffinWesternWA

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 30, 2014

Sarge707 said:
Any decent 5w40 oil with API SN is good.
You can buy a 6 pack on Amazon of Most Popular Synthetic oils from $45-50 with NO tax and free shipping!
Now if you buy it a quart at a time at Autozone for $9.99 and Tax you pay $63-64. Buy 6 pack at Amazon and save $13-18 Dollars?

Really?, reading the manual I thought a 4 cycle oil was required but, an SN oil was ok for "top off", if so, that saves a lot of $$ as the 4 cycle syn oils I see around are $10~ qt!

Any brands other than BRP you've found in oil filters? Wix, Napa, etc., that I may find at a good auto parts store vice going to the dealer?

Do we have any "equivalent" to the XP spray I keep seeing throughout the manual/service manual??

Wrench4fun

· #8 · Aug 30, 2014

JeffinWesternWA said:
Really?, reading the manual I thought a 4 cycle oil was required but, an SN oil was ok for "top off", if so, that saves a lot of $$ as the 4 cycle syn oils I see around are $10~ qt!

Any brands other than BRP you've found in oil filters? Wix, Napa, etc., that I may find at a good auto parts store vice going to the dealer?

Do we have any "equivalent" to the XP spray I keep seeing throughout the manual/service manual??

there are likely other alternative products you can use, but I swear by the XPS lube, I have used all kinds of different spray lubricants but nothing like the XPS lube, it is a thin oil that penetrates well, it is good for dissipating water, you can spray it on rubber components and it actually feeds the rubber so it doesn't crack, good to spray on electrical components, it doesn't stink like fluid film, it doesn't stain, it doesn't leave a sticky mess behind, I store my street bike in my garden shed out back in the winter, I spray the whole bike down with it, paint, tires chrome, everything! and when I go and check on it it is covered in condensation, in the spring I just hose it down and hit it with a wash mit and soapy water and it cleans right up there isn't a spot of rust on it anywhere, I also use it on my dirt bike every time I am out on it I wash it up and spray it down with it after, the exhaust and engine look like its brand new I bought the bike new 10 years ago and it has over 9000kms of riding in the dirt and mud! I know lots of people that use it on their snowmobiles during storage and also before and after trailering on the salt covered roads when they are going on a trip somewhere and it keeps the aluminium looking new!

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Sarge707

· #9 · Aug 30, 2014 (Edited)

I agree I always used the XPS lube on All my past skies!!
On oil the manual specifies API SN . I took it for granted you use 4 stroke oil because its a 4 stroke engine?
When winterizing Add a decent amount of Stabil the Last time you ride so it circulates really well through the engine. Just adding Stabil and running for 1 minute is Not the equivalent.
FILTRE HUILE *FILTER-OIL
420956123
I would Not cheat on the filter, use the proper one. It does cross reference to the Snowmobile similar engine.

Wrench4fun

· #10 · Aug 31, 2014

yes, definitely run the fuel stabilizer through, the 5 mins on flush is barely enough, there are a lot of debates over oil quality etc. how much are you really saving by finding something cheaper? $10-$20? most of us will only have to change it once a year, I went through at least $200 on two stroke oil before. I don't believe all oil is the same so which one is the best? The synthetic oil from seadoo isn't meant for use in automotive application so why would automotive oil be ok for seadoo's? I am not an chemical engineer so I don't know. are we suppose to believe a company that says their oil is good enough? I don't believe someone is going to have a failure using anyones oil that meets the specification but is it going to prevent wear as well? corrosion prevention? and if you did have an problem because of the oil how easy is it for you to get them to come good with their guarantee?

oil filters we can use the same debate, is the filter material the same spec? don't know? there isn't a rating on filters that I know of. is the material fine enough? or too fine? I have seen aftermarket filters fall apart before, the ones I have seen were for the 1500cc four stroke seadoo engine, the end caps fell apart, you know the filter wasn't doing its job if the end caps weren't sealed to the filter material, and all because the guy wanted to save likely $7, I know that isn't normal for the filter to fall apart like that but the guys producing cheaper products are usually doing it by cutting corners, it isn't worth taking the risk in my opinion to save a couple of bucks when I spent thousands!

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JeffinWesternWA

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 31, 2014

Wrench4fun said:
yes, definitely run the fuel stabilizer through, the 5 mins on flush is barely enough, there are a lot of debates over oil quality etc. how much are you really saving by finding something cheaper? $10-$20? most of us will only have to change it once a year, I went through at least $200 on two stroke oil before. I don't believe all oil is the same so which one is the best? The synthetic oil from seadoo isn't meant for use in automotive application so why would automotive oil be ok for seadoo's? I am not an chemical engineer so I don't know. are we suppose to believe a company that says their oil is good enough? I don't believe someone is going to have a failure using anyones oil that meets the specification but is it going to prevent wear as well? corrosion prevention? and if you did have an problem because of the oil how easy is it for you to get them to come good with their guarantee?

oil filters we can use the same debate, is the filter material the same spec? don't know? there isn't a rating on filters that I know of. is the material fine enough? or too fine? I have seen aftermarket filters fall apart before, the ones I have seen were for the 1500cc four stroke seadoo engine, the end caps fell apart, you know the filter wasn't doing its job if the end caps weren't sealed to the filter material, and all because the guy wanted to save likely $7, I know that isn't normal for the filter to fall apart like that but the guys producing cheaper products are usually doing it by cutting corners, it isn't worth taking the risk in my opinion to save a couple of bucks when I spent thousands!

Thanx, my thoughts about the 4 stroke oil too, so I've decided I'll check out my dealer for a FULL syn oil designed for 4 stroke/PWC motors (as I may go two seasons if I don't get near 100~ hours total by end of next season), I'll check out WIX for the filter, if not, also get it from the dealer with the stock PN and grab some XPS lube too. Wal-Mart for some stabil and blue locktight, I think the current O ring for the filter should be fine. Plenty of wax and wax and welll as trutle wax spray wax for winter detailing. I'll flush the exhaust 2X before shutdown and suction the oil hot after the last season run while running it on a full tank of stabilized, fresh full prior at about end of month...thanx! And, guess I'll give my VIN while I'm there to see if the handlebar (or other recall) apply!

Wrench4fun

· #12 · Sep 1, 2014

JeffinWesternWA said:
Thanx, my thoughts about the 4 stroke oil too, so I've decided I'll check out my dealer for a FULL syn oil designed for 4 stroke/PWC motors (as I may go two seasons if I don't get near 100~ hours total by end of next season), I'll check out WIX for the filter, if not, also get it from the dealer with the stock PN and grab some XPS lube too. Wal-Mart for some stabil and blue locktight, I think the current O ring for the filter should be fine. Plenty of wax and wax and welll as trutle wax spray wax for winter detailing. I'll flush the exhaust 2X before shutdown and suction the oil hot after the last season run while running it on a full tank of stabilized, fresh full prior at about end of month...thanx! And, guess I'll give my VIN while I'm there to see if the handlebar (or other recall) apply!

sounds like you have everything under control, one thing you may want to do or at least think about is running some corrosion inhibitor through the exhaust cooling system, even though you may not run in salt water and you do flush it, the water you flush with may have enough metals in it or salt (from water softeners) to cause issues over time (it would take likely 10 years to cause a problem) some plumbing antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors in it, others do not.

JeffinWesternWA

Discussion Starter · #13 · Sep 4, 2014

Ok, went to my dealer, paid $13 a QUART for the XPS full synthetic oil per OM/SM BRP. (I think I'll leave it in TWO seasons since a full syn doesn't absorb moisture or break down as fast as a conventional oil in the sump - and it was only $2 a quart more than the recommended Syntheitc Blend). The factory oil filter was $15 (!) and get this: the XPS spray $12 a 14 oz can. It might be made of gold?

Will pickup some marine grade Stabil for the Jeep and the Spark(Y) fuel tanks at Wal Mart and tackle all this after last ride (adding stabil to full tank before the last ride) in a few weeks.

Plan to flush extra well, and suction the oil and filter while hot. Coolant looks fine BTW. Next year I may(may not) just change the oil filter and spray w/ XPS per SM.

I'll be storing inside a dry, partially heated (usually stays 50'F and up in winter) garage anyway.

Trailer wheels (3) to rotate, tire pressures to fill, battery tender to connect, will leave the oil fill/engine acccess/bilge plug (open) for best circulation.

Sometime during winter/spring a couple coats of "wax as you dry" will also happen. I'll wash well as I do every 10 hours with a good car wash wax/soap and thoroughly rinse the bilge too at the final ride.

Can't see fogging nor any other service as only 30~ ish hours will be on the machine at this point.

I may start it and run for a minute at idle every couple months in the winter??

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Sarge707

· #14 · Sep 4, 2014

The $13 XPS is No better than a Valvoline 5W40 Synthetic API SN for $9 and Do Not start the engine for 1 Minute during the winter??? Only start the engine if your going to Run it to operating temp (On the Water) for at least 30 Minutes. Starting for 1 minute does absolutely NO good during storage!
Many people make the same mistake with Can Am Spyders by starting them for a few minutes in the winter but Unless your riding for 30 Minutes it does More Harm than Good.
The BRP oil is made by Castrol and I will bet it does Not even say API SN ( Latest Oil Quality Rating) on the bottle. The Service Manual specifies API SN 5W40 oil?

JeffinWesternWA

Discussion Starter · #15 · Sep 4, 2014

Sarge707 said:
The $13 XPS is No better than a Valvoline 5W40 Synthetic API SN for $9 and Do Not start the engine for 1 Minute during the winter??? Only start the engine if your going to Run it to operating temp (On the Water) for at least 30 Minutes. Starting for 1 minute does absolutely NO good during storage!
Many people make the same mistake with Can Am Spyders by starting them for a few minutes in the winter but Unless your riding for 30 Minutes it does More Harm than Good.
The BRP oil is made by Castrol and I will bet it does Not even say API SN ( Latest Oil Quality Rating) on the bottle. The Service Manual specifies API SN 5W40 oil?

I agree w/ NOT starting the engine if I'm not going to run "hot" - I wont..the XPS syn blend or fulll syn are the two oils recommend in the SM/OM by BRP. They only state the SN oil can be used to "top off", which is why I questioned - and went with a special 4 stroke oil, no the XPS isn't SN rated but, if it's not for automotive use, I doubt they would rate it anyway..I thought of using Mobil One but, went w/ XPS since this is a under warrany machine...couldn't find a wix or eq filter locaally at a few stores and had no idea what compares w/ XPS spray that's recommended in the SM/OM after asking here...

Sarge707

· #16 · Sep 4, 2014

Recommended Engine Oil
Use XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER)
(P/N 293 600 121) or XPS 4-STROKE SYNTHETIC OIL
(ALL CLIMATE) (P/N 293 600 112). (If the recommended
XPS TM engine oil is not available, use
5W40 or 10W40 API SERVICE SN synthetic oil).

This is from the Service Manual.
It says nothing about topping off?
Of course BRP recommends their oil and why Not for the Price they ask us to pay?
The last sentence is what really counts- You May use 5w40 or 10w40 API SN Synthetic oil!!!
With the supercharged skies you needed a JASO MA2 rating because of the supercharger BUT that's Not applicable with this motor.
I am only pointing this out so save people $$$ from buying the overpriced BRP oil.

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Grant

· #17 · Nov 21, 2014

How many litres of oil does the Spark require for an oil change?

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