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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I think this was discussed long ago but don't think anyone knew exactly. I don't like the fact that SeaDoo states you have to clamp a certain hose should you ever need to get towed in the water and yet that hose is so far down in the inside of the Spark, its not reachable without taking the top off. If you are disabled on the water you can't take the whole upper deck off.

So anyway... I was wondering if anyone knew if the flush kit for IBR sparks is the same little hose that leads to the hose you need to clamp for towing? If so could you just seal that off if you needed to get towed?

This brings me to the other question.... I don't like how cheap the flush kit port is under the IBR. I feel like the cheap plastic threads on it are already stripping from screwing a hose adapter in there each time to flush it. The adapter I screw in is a quick release one and when there is no hose attached it pretty much blocks flow of water going in there. If this is the same thing as clamping the hose when in need of a tow I'd be thrilled.

I plan on leaving the adapter on there instead of unscrewing and stripping the threads on the flush kit more. I checked the clearance and it doesn't stick out much from the port and I turned the steering and could tell that it and the IBR won't hit it with their moving parts. However.... I'm wondering if this needs to be open when I'm riding. Pretty dumb questions but would love to know. I haven't ridden it since I left the quick release adapter on there last time and figured I should ask someone who knows before I do.

Thanks guys! :x
 

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Hey guys. I think this was discussed long ago but don't think anyone knew exactly. I don't like the fact that SeaDoo states you have to clamp a certain hose should you ever need to get towed in the water and yet that hose is so far down in the inside of the Spark, its not reachable without taking the top off. If you are disabled on the water you can't take the whole upper deck off.

So anyway... I was wondering if anyone knew if the flush kit for IBR sparks is the same little hose that leads to the hose you need to clamp for towing? If so could you just seal that off if you needed to get towed?

This brings me to the other question.... I don't like how cheap the flush kit port is under the IBR. I feel like the cheap plastic threads on it are already stripping from screwing a hose adapter in there each time to flush it. The adapter I screw in is a quick release one and when there is no hose attached it pretty much blocks flow of water going in there. If this is the same thing as clamping the hose when in need of a tow I'd be thrilled.

I plan on leaving the adapter on there instead of unscrewing and stripping the threads on the flush kit more. I checked the clearance and it doesn't stick out much from the port and I turned the steering and could tell that it and the IBR won't hit it with their moving parts. However.... I'm wondering if this needs to be open when I'm riding. Pretty dumb questions but would love to know. I haven't ridden it since I left the quick release adapter on there last time and figured I should ask someone who knows before I do.

Thanks guys! :x
Hi SB, how are you today? A couple of good questions here, I just looked at the microfiche diagram of the cooling system from Seadoowarehouse.com and it looks like the inlet hose to the exhaust manifold (the one that Seadoo recommends clamping when being towed) is the one that connects to the flushing adaptor. I guess others on the forum with practical experience of the upper deck removed would be able to confirm this. On your other question re the threads, my flushing adaptor (genuine Seadoo supplied by my dealer) is a push on type to connect to my garden hose, so there is no issue with stripped threads with misalignment, aren't push on connectors available in the USA? I'd suggest changing to the push on type if possible, depending what is available at your marina? Regards Bazza.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bazza. I had the dealership install the Sea-Doo flush kit before they delivered it to me. No push adapter with it just a female threaded inlet, port, hole.... whatever you want to call it LOL. I bought an adaptor from the hardware store that screws in and the other side I can push a hose into. It just seals when there is no hose pushed in.
 

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Hey guys. I think this was discussed long ago but don't think anyone knew exactly. I don't like the fact that SeaDoo states you have to clamp a certain hose should you ever need to get towed in the water and yet that hose is so far down in the inside of the Spark, its not reachable without taking the top off. If you are disabled on the water you can't take the whole upper deck off.

So anyway... I was wondering if anyone knew if the flush kit for IBR sparks is the same little hose that leads to the hose you need to clamp for towing? If so could you just seal that off if you needed to get towed?
While towing there is positive pump pressure building in the pump shoe area. Water is pushed into the exhaust manifold via a little "plug/strainer". You can't access the plug OR the easily clamp the correct line, so that's why the manual says to tow under 13 mph to reduce the pump pressure. Capping the flush line won't work.

I think this is the thread you were referring to --->>>Which line to clamp?
 

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as per photo the hose on the left is the inlet to clamp
and you can get to it through the engine access panel but to install I think you could do
let hope never need a toe
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. It was a different thread. I know where it is and that there is the option to install a valve that is easier to reach which seafood should have done in the first place. Thanks for letting me know that plugging an IBR flush kit hose wouldn't work. .... but into the other question, if that flush kit port is plugged why I am riding with anything? I heard tow 13mph with hose clamps or if you can't clamp the house then best bet is tow at idle speed but the towing service membership I have .... well I'm sure that they will say we don't tow that slow. Also it would take forever to come back from the Bahamas or a long trip at idle speed. I think down the road when my warranty is up and I have the top off all install a valve in that hose. if anyone has a video of them doing this that would be awesome. I installed a valve in the fuel line on my scooter to make it a manual shut off versus a petcock flow but doing that too a more easily accessible fuel line on $1000 scooter is much different than doing it to a spark :p
 

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why do you toe under 10mph ?? on any ski ???


Ok
The prop spins makes thrust and pushes forward and a side benefit is pressure into the engine cooling line witch comes form the pump.
Ever wondered how the cooling is just right for the work the engine is doing ??
The more revs the more heat and more pressure from the pump to cool the engine.


Anyway in the spark only the exhaust manifold and muffler are cooled by out side water that spays into the gases SO if you toe fast enough to make pressure to flow it will fill the muffler and flow back to the cylinders then to late.


If it runs yes a good idea to idle when in toe but if its running why toe??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wouldn't tow if it was running, I'd idle/limp back if there were problems ( unless I was riding from Bahamas to Miami, then limp mode would be impossible over the waves.

I was just trying to figure out ....

a) if plugging the flush port under the IBR would be the same as clamping the hose that is impossible to clamp on the water before a tow and this was answered ( no not the same )

and

b) if I leave my quick connect adapter screwed into the flush port ( which is closed when there is no hose in it ) if this would hurt the ski at all. I wasn't sure if water needed to go in or come out of there while running. still hoping to get an answer on this one.

as far as MPH for towing, the manual says clamp house and town at about 13MPH, but as we know its impossible to clamp that hose without taking the upper deck off so next best bet is to tow at idle speed without that hose not clamped.

I was just hoping that plugging the flush port would be an easier option than having to install a valve that has an easier to reach handle for emergencies.

:)

sorry what I'm typing is all repetitive but I'm thinking maybe I didn't make myself clear before. My apologies.
 

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questions


a/ No not the same


B/ I leave the flush kit permit on ready for the hose, as far as I know water flows out the flush port as well as you ride




I wouldn't tow if it was running, I'd idle/limp back if there were problems ( unless I was riding from Bahamas to Miami, then limp mode would be impossible over the waves.

I was just trying to figure out ....

a) if plugging the flush port under the IBR would be the same as clamping the hose that is impossible to clamp on the water before a tow and this was answered ( no not the same )

and

b) if I leave my quick connect adapter screwed into the flush port ( which is closed when there is no hose in it ) if this would hurt the ski at all. I wasn't sure if water needed to go in or come out of there while running. still hoping to get an answer on this one.

as far as MPH for towing, the manual says clamp house and town at about 13MPH, but as we know its impossible to clamp that hose without taking the upper deck off so next best bet is to tow at idle speed without that hose not clamped.

I was just hoping that plugging the flush port would be an easier option than having to install a valve that has an easier to reach handle for emergencies.

:)

sorry what I'm typing is all repetitive but I'm thinking maybe I didn't make myself clear before. My apologies.
 

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Today it's raining, I was bored, so I took her top off....errr I took the Sparks upper deck off!! Been curious since I got my Spark last June to have a look "inside", because videos and pics don't quite give you the full story of whats there and how everything is laid out. So after about 20 mins. I had the upper deck hoisted up via two pulleys attached to a timber beam in my garage. To get to the point...the hose that Seadoo says has to be clamped when towing with a dead engine is the one shown in the diagrams shown in previous posts, and it is fed water under pressure from a take off tube on the jet pump housing. You can see this, it's got a black hex plug and a number 267000614 on it. Look further up inside and you'll see a black tube go through the rear of the hull, this connects to the rubber hose going to the front of the exhaust manifold, so it means it cannot be sealed or blocked from the outside. The other hose on the exhaust manifold (at the rear end) goes through the hull and is the one that we use to flush the system after a ride. So while the ski is being ridden, cooling water is exiting through the flush tube, in the opposite direction. So the only way to clamp the hose is through the access hatch. Or if you really have to avoid doing it that way, you may be able (with the upper deck removed) to fit a stainless steel valve that stays in the open position until the day comes when you need towing at more than 13mph, and you'll have to reach down and turn the valve handle 90 degrees to close it. It's up to you whether you consider it's worth the hassle and cost of a valve and labour. You'll also notice when flushing (max. 2 mins) that if you put your hand up above and to the right side of the jet unit you feel hot exhaust gas and fairly warm water exiting, the water won't burn you, it just gets pretty warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
great info. i better take the quick release that seals off the flush port off until I'm going to use it for flushing if water comes out of there when the ski is on and in the water.

a pully system to take the top off sounds awesome. when i take my girl's top off I'll be asking a guy at the marina to help me lift it off and onto the ground next to the ski maintenance racks and tip him lol. cant wait to go out Sunday on the Spark :)
 

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Just adding a couple of tips I think could be helpful if anyone removes the upper deck...the video posted by Rampage (do a search upper deck removal) is very good, I hope the following will also make it easier. You'll need a Torx T30 , a 10mm socket with short extension shaft, and the smaller the ratchet you use the easier it will fit into the restricted space inside the upper deck. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. Up to 4 zip ties, in case the cable connectors on the wiring loom break the red locking tabs when separating the connectors. Zip ties need to be at least 10 inches (255mm) long. One of my red tabs broke off, I suspect the guide it slides into was damaged by the mechanic doing the first service. There are two triangular shaped cut outs below the handlebars, I used these for lifting the front end with the pulleys attached to a beam in the garage, and at the rear the grab handle was the rear lifting point. Start by removing the seat and remove the three screws around the petrol filler cap, leave the cap on. Remove the two shiny black panels behind the seat, after the single screw is removed the panel slides toward the side of the hull, it does not pull upwards. If you have a storage bin fitted, remove it. At the front of the coloured panel next to the handlebars there is a single screw almost hidden, pointing upwards, remove it and slide the coloured panel forward. Have a look at the tabs underneath to see how to refit this panel. With this panel off you have good access to the single 10mm bolt holding the steering cable to the handlebars, now remove this bolt. Next remove both left side panels. Remove the two screws holding the steering cable in its housing and slide it backwards. Separate the wiring connectors, can be fiddly with the red locking tabs. Remove all the screws along the upper deck with a Torx head and 10mm socket along the sides ( five bolts and nuts each side). Two persons will be needed to lift off the upper deck, or as I did, two pulleys and nylon rope, it's not that difficult on your own, just getting the balance right takes care. When refitting just watch for the steering cable going back correctly. The zip tips if needed are fed through the cables at each end of the connectors to ensure the connectors don't come apart whilst riding! All the screws removed have plastic washers, these can tear. There are aluminium washers available online. I have these, the only negative can be corrosion if not washed after each ride. I bought two packs of 25, though a 10 pack plus a 25 pack should be enough. Suggest you check the tightness of battery terminal bolts/nuts and same at starter motor also under red covers at main relay. A while back I used a piece of car radiator hose to protect the wiring from rubbing against the cylinder head, and if Seadoo have not addressed this issue during first service now would be a good time to sort it out. The hose is cut lengthwise and held tight with a zip tie. Any comments or questions are welcome. Are you still awake?!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good info Bazza. Thanks for taking the time to post all that for others. One torx tool to do the oil change and another to take the top off. I haven't delt with so many specialized tools since I started fixing my own bikes lol. Well maybe its not all that specialized, but just tools I don't have and I was starting to think I had a pretty sick collection. I don't know why they have to go and make some of these bolt head holes star shaped. Heh I said head and hole.... don't mind me... weird mood. I added it to my Ebay watch list ( aka stuff I'll need later )
 

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Torxs bolts and inverted torx bolts are becoming standard now in the automotive industry so it makes sense that boats would follow. A new bolt I saw yesterday at work annoyed me as it means I have to buy a new set, it's called a "mortorqs." Looks just like a Phillips but they put a bend on the blades, I'm sure the manufactures and tool companies are in bed together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
heh. Oh lord. That's a " pretty head " HEHEHEHE. But... why?! There are enough tools out there as it is. I don't need to buy anymore! LOL
 
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