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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 3 up with IBR and from what I heard if you have the non IBR the flush kit is easy to DIY install but if you have the IBR its a huge bitch so i had the dealership install it.

I understand how to flush it using the flush kit from the manual and dealership telling me how to but the manual also says...

On page 91, right column under the warning box that says " clean propulsion system by spraying water in its inlet and outlet and then apply a coating of XPS lube or equivalent. "

Is the inlet the water intake on the bottom and the outlet the ass on the back where the water comes out? Stupid question but im new to this and couldnt find any "inlet " or " outlet " labels on things in the manual.

I don't even know where the impeller is yet but i heard it rusts out quick on this and so i want to make sure hit hit it with liquid film and salt away. is it on the bottom / intake area?

Also.... ive heard mixed reviews from people on if you are supposed to spray inside the spark water / salt away, etc.. from the side panel? Some people say don't add more water to an area that seems to remain dry on these sparks so don't do it and some say ya def flush the whole area, just not the little filter thing on the left.

From what I understand it seems the rules about flushing the spark are different than on most other PWCs and with new rules comes come confusion. **** my dealership told me break in period was 10 hrs and first servicing was after 10 hrs. I called BRP after hearing otherwise and they said no, the break in period is 5 hrs and first servicing is after 50hrs, to tell the dealer to read the manual and know that things are different with the Spark.
 

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no need to spray water inside the hull. just use fluid film.

i haven't heard anything about the impeller rusting. I had mine apart after 8 hrs in salt and it was clean and corrosion free. get under the ski and look thru the intake grate you will see the impeller shaft. look thru the pump nozzle and you will see the impeller.
 

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I have a 3 up with IBR and from what I heard if you have the non IBR the flush kit is easy to DIY install but if you have the IBR its a huge bitch so i had the dealership install it.

I understand how to flush it using the flush kit from the manual and dealership telling me how to but the manual also says...

On page 91, right column under the warning box that says " clean propulsion system by spraying water in its inlet and outlet and then apply a coating of XPS lube or equivalent. "

Is the inlet the water intake on the bottom and the outlet the ass on the back where the water comes out? Stupid question but im new to this and couldnt find any "inlet " or " outlet " labels on things in the manual.

I don't even know where the impeller is yet but i heard it rusts out quick on this and so i want to make sure hit hit it with liquid film and salt away. is it on the bottom / intake area?

Also.... ive heard mixed reviews from people on if you are supposed to spray inside the spark water / salt away, etc.. from the side panel? Some people say don't add more water to an area that seems to remain dry on these sparks so don't do it and some say ya def flush the whole area, just not the little filter thing on the left.

From what I understand it seems the rules about flushing the spark are different than on most other PWCs and with new rules comes come confusion. **** my dealership told me break in period was 10 hrs and first servicing was after 10 hrs. I called BRP after hearing otherwise and they said no, the break in period is 5 hrs and first servicing is after 50hrs, to tell the dealer to read the manual and know that things are different with the Spark.
I was told 10 hours by dealer as well and manual says 5 however our water here is very rough and it is going to be hard to get 5 hours riding slow and not jumping wakes. Also told to do oil change after 20 hours which I doubt only riding once a week in bad water we will have this summer. Disappointed I have a great new jet ski I can not use as I intended!
 

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I also am concerned as we were told we don't need a flush kit yet we ride in water with lots of sticks and sea weed. They told us to wait and see what other riders say before recommending flush kit. This bothers me!
 

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I have a 3 up with IBR and from what I heard if you have the non IBR the flush kit is easy to DIY install but if you have the IBR its a huge bitch so i had the dealership install it.

I understand how to flush it using the flush kit from the manual and dealership telling me how to but the manual also says...

On page 91, right column under the warning box that says " clean propulsion system by spraying water in its inlet and outlet and then apply a coating of XPS lube or equivalent. "

Is the inlet the water intake on the bottom and the outlet the ass on the back where the water comes out? Stupid question but im new to this and couldnt find any "inlet " or " outlet " labels on things in the manual.

I don't even know where the impeller is yet but i heard it rusts out quick on this and so i want to make sure hit hit it with liquid film and salt away. is it on the bottom / intake area?

Also.... ive heard mixed reviews from people on if you are supposed to spray inside the spark water / salt away, etc.. from the side panel? Some people say don't add more water to an area that seems to remain dry on these sparks so don't do it and some say ya def flush the whole area, just not the little filter thing on the left.

From what I understand it seems the rules about flushing the spark are different than on most other PWCs and with new rules comes come confusion. **** my dealership told me break in period was 10 hrs and first servicing was after 10 hrs. I called BRP after hearing otherwise and they said no, the break in period is 5 hrs and first servicing is after 50hrs, to tell the dealer to read the manual and know that things are different with the Spark.
We were told we don't need to flush our Spark but I am not sure I buy that! We are in water with lots of debris and sea weed. I already had mine flood where it would not start and smelled gas after the second time starting her.
 

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We were told we don't need to flush our Spark but I am not sure I buy that! We are in water with lots of debris and sea weed. I already had mine flood where it would not start and smelled gas after the second time starting her.
Check your plug...there shouldnt be any water inside the hull if you have it properly closed.

Flushing your spark has no relation to riding in water with sea weed and debris. You always want to flush your exhaust out after riding (what the flush kit does). The sea weed and debris will be an issue if you suck it up through your grate.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Paula - the manual says flush after use in salt water or foul water. to me if its not drinking water it could be foul water. I would always flush it. check out page 95 and 91 of the manual. from what i understand you dont need a flush kit if you dont have IBR. some guy on the boards made his own hose adapter which basically was a small hose attachment to go on the garden hose which would make it easy to flush and from what i remember it was done on the side panel. on the ibr like i have i had to have a kit installed, it was too hard to install myself and its in the back. your dealer saying " wait and see what others say " is almost as dumb as me hearing a person say their dealer told them there was a mandatory cover fee. ya they had to buy a cover lmao. when in doubt go by the manual or call BRP . i have them on speed dial 888-272-9222. these dealers need to read the manual. things are different on the sparks than other skis. its very important that you follow the directions in the manual about flushing as far as turning it on before starting the water and all that. i'd spray some fluid film all over to help prevent rust. amazon has it, you dont need the dumb application wand, just the little straw it comes with. its great for bike chains too. the manufacturer says just a light mist and reapply after every 10 or so uses. I had to break out a flash light and spray all over. some tight areas you are dealing with if you are just taking off the little side panel doors. i sprayed inside the oil door too. all over. if you're not dealing with salt water then you dont need to flush with salt away like me :)

TK423 - thanks . i asked my dealer and he said ya def hose down the inside through the side panel just not to the left where the air filter? is ( i dunno, the big roundish thing on the left ) he said you wouldnt not take a shower just because you didnt get dirty. but now that ive heard so much false info from the dealership i dont trust anything they say. im trying to just stick to the manual. i was just a little confused when it said " clean propulsion system by spraying water in its inlet and outlet and then apply a coating of XPS lube or equivalent. "
 

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...no reason to change the oil prior to 50 hours/a year...I don't know if the oil from factory is a "break in" oil, or just the factory stock (synth blend is my guess - but, just a guess), or if you manage to get water into the engine then change it but, if your not doing it yourself, it's costly! My dealer charges $80 LABOR and the oil is not cheap either, 2 quarts will run you $18~, throw in towing it there cost and time, tax and that's expensive. The oil should last just fine a complete season up to 50 hours! I'll change once a year and be comfy in knowing the motor will probably outlast me! Follow the manual and you'll be just fine. And flush, flush the exhaust and keep that intake clean!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Geeze for an oil change? LoL. When I was 18 I bought some membership card that Midas was selling where I got oil changes for $15 and I still have the card. No matter how high the price went up over the years I always got that price with my cars. I do my oil changes on my scooter and plan to on my wave runner. If I get so stuck I can't do something myself, luckily the marina has mechanics on site. I'm sure its not cheap but has to be less then paying to have it shipped to and from the marina.

ya i was wondering if it was just whatever break in oil but if it was im assuming they would have to tell you in the manual to change it sooner . the manual actually says every 100 on the oil change! i think ill just have them do it for the 50hr first check up which i already paid for with the dealership.
 

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Paula - the manual says flush after use in salt water or foul water. to me if its not drinking water it could be foul water. I would always flush it. check out page 95 and 91 of the manual. from what i understand you dont need a flush kit if you dont have IBR. some guy on the boards made his own hose adapter which basically was a small hose attachment to go on the garden hose which would make it easy to flush and from what i remember it was done on the side panel. on the ibr like i have i had to have a kit installed, it was too hard to install myself and its in the back. your dealer saying " wait and see what others say " is almost as dumb as me hearing a person say their dealer told them there was a mandatory cover fee. ya they had to buy a cover lmao. when in doubt go by the manual or call BRP . i have them on speed dial 888-272-9222. these dealers need to read the manual. things are different on the sparks than other skis. its very important that you follow the directions in the manual about flushing as far as turning it on before starting the water and all that. i'd spray some fluid film all over to help prevent rust. amazon has it, you dont need the dumb application wand, just the little straw it comes with. its great for bike chains too. the manufacturer says just a light mist and reapply after every 10 or so uses. I had to break out a flash light and spray all over. some tight areas you are dealing with if you are just taking off the little side panel doors. i sprayed inside the oil door too. all over. if you're not dealing with salt water then you dont need to flush with salt away like me :)

TK423 - thanks . i asked my dealer and he said ya def hose down the inside through the side panel just not to the left where the air filter? is ( i dunno, the big roundish thing on the left ) he said you wouldnt not take a shower just because you didnt get dirty. but now that ive heard so much false info from the dealership i dont trust anything they say. im trying to just stick to the manual. i was just a little confused when it said " clean propulsion system by spraying water in its inlet and outlet and then apply a coating of XPS lube or equivalent. "

The whole "not showering becuase your not dirty" analogy has no bearing on the ski. Your dealer sounds like a moron. By all means, spray the inside down with water, but you had better tip that thing vertical and hope to drain all the water out, and pray that the remaining moisture dries. This is not the same as most other watercraft. On my VXR, you take the seat off, spray the bitch down, and then drop a shop vac in and its dry as a bone. A coat of fluid film completes the process. There is no way in **** I would do that to my Spark...just my 2 cents.
 

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Geeze for an oil change? LoL. When I was 18 I bought some membership card that Midas was selling where I got oil changes for $15 and I still have the card. No matter how high the price went up over the years I always got that price with my cars. I do my oil changes on my scooter and plan to on my wave runner. If I get so stuck I can't do something myself, luckily the marina has mechanics on site. I'm sure its not cheap but has to be less then paying to have it shipped to and from the marina.

ya i was wondering if it was just whatever break in oil but if it was im assuming they would have to tell you in the manual to change it sooner . the manual actually says every 100 on the oil change! i think ill just have them do it for the 50hr first check up which i already paid for with the dealership.
I hear horror stories from places like Midas, usually try to avoid those places.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
seaking - I always had pretty good luck with them surprisingly.

TK423 - my phone censors what i saw for talk to text and on petco.com if you write a review you can't way the word " pee " lmao.

I flushed my 3up / IBR for the first time today and what a royal pain in the ass. First of all the mixer thing for Salt Away is not water tight. Spilled all over but luckily i had it in a bad. It seems to be water tight when i tested it before putting it in the bag but i guess not.

I thought the black thing in the back went up ( the IBR thingee ) to expose the flush kit better but nope, i called BRP who transfered me to a tech in the area who said nope you just have to get under there, something they realized after words and will prob have a mod for it in the future. For something i paid so much extra for with install you would think it would be more user friendly. Also the plastic threads on it seem cheap and when i tried to attach the Salt Away mixer thing from the hose to the flush kit screw in point it wouldnt work because when i turned the mixer to tighten it, the IBR thingee was in the way so I couldn't. Looks like i need to find a little "mini hose " to make an adaptor so it comes out further and im not practically on my back at the marina trying to hook this up and so the salt away thing will work. i wish i could have a little 2" hose hang off of it at all times so i dont have to keep removing it and further weaken the kit threads but im not sure if it would get in the way of the back rotating when i turn.

Anyone else notice this pain in the butt thing?
 
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