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5 Posts
Had to replace the crankshaft due to a stripped out PTO. Just got it reassembled and it fired for a second before cutting out and now it cranks but won't start and scrolls check engine across the screen. Any ideas? I know it's kind of a broad range of possibilities.
I'm most concerned about the following possibilities:
-Oily electrical connector somewhere giving a bad connection
-Timing - I think I got this right but I'm second guessing myself. I got the i/n on the intake cam lined up with the e/x on the exhaust cam, and there's a 0/0 looking mark on the crank visible through the removable plug. is this correct? There's another set of marks on the cams, and I think that was the only thing on the crank.
-I could have gotten an unknown something in the front cover incorrect. Only suggesting this because it seemed pretty complicated in there, not because there's a particular thing I suspect. I did remove the flywheel from the old crank and install it on the new, and instead of getting a locking tool I had a friend tighten it while I used the driveshaft plus the impeller and a towel to hold it in place. Believe it or not this method was limited by my friend's pressure on my 1/2" drive ratchet, and not by my grip on the prop, but it's likely we didn't get quite to the 110 ft-lb spec. I doubt this would prevent it from starting though...
Going to try to get a code read soon to see if that can help narrow it down. Problem is I've been doing this for a family member in STL and I can only come in on the weekends (from KS.) Didn't have much time to try cleaning connectors or other simple ideas.
I'm most concerned about the following possibilities:
-Oily electrical connector somewhere giving a bad connection
-Timing - I think I got this right but I'm second guessing myself. I got the i/n on the intake cam lined up with the e/x on the exhaust cam, and there's a 0/0 looking mark on the crank visible through the removable plug. is this correct? There's another set of marks on the cams, and I think that was the only thing on the crank.
-I could have gotten an unknown something in the front cover incorrect. Only suggesting this because it seemed pretty complicated in there, not because there's a particular thing I suspect. I did remove the flywheel from the old crank and install it on the new, and instead of getting a locking tool I had a friend tighten it while I used the driveshaft plus the impeller and a towel to hold it in place. Believe it or not this method was limited by my friend's pressure on my 1/2" drive ratchet, and not by my grip on the prop, but it's likely we didn't get quite to the 110 ft-lb spec. I doubt this would prevent it from starting though...
Going to try to get a code read soon to see if that can help narrow it down. Problem is I've been doing this for a family member in STL and I can only come in on the weekends (from KS.) Didn't have much time to try cleaning connectors or other simple ideas.