[alex barker]

Had to replace the crankshaft due to a stripped out PTO. Just got it reassembled and it fired for a second before cutting out and now it cranks but won't start and scrolls check engine across the screen. Any ideas? I know it's kind of a broad range of possibilities.

I'm most concerned about the following possibilities:
-Oily electrical connector somewhere giving a bad connection
-Timing - I think I got this right but I'm second guessing myself. I got the i/n on the intake cam lined up with the e/x on the exhaust cam, and there's a 0/0 looking mark on the crank visible through the removable plug. is this correct? There's another set of marks on the cams, and I think that was the only thing on the crank.
-I could have gotten an unknown something in the front cover incorrect. Only suggesting this because it seemed pretty complicated in there, not because there's a particular thing I suspect. I did remove the flywheel from the old crank and install it on the new, and instead of getting a locking tool I had a friend tighten it while I used the driveshaft plus the impeller and a towel to hold it in place. Believe it or not this method was limited by my friend's pressure on my 1/2" drive ratchet, and not by my grip on the prop, but it's likely we didn't get quite to the 110 ft-lb spec. I doubt this would prevent it from starting though...

Going to try to get a code read soon to see if that can help narrow it down. Problem is I've been doing this for a family member in STL and I can only come in on the weekends (from KS.) Didn't have much time to try cleaning connectors or other simple ideas.

 

[alex barker]

Found out what the check engine code was... Oily connector was making the throttle body report WOT without any user throttle input. This disabled it from firing. No check engine anymore but it still doesn't start. Charged battery, checked spark plugs and aired out in case it was flooded. Starting to run out of ideas.

Anyone know what would happen if the timing were wrong? Would the computer pick up on that? Or would it just crank without starting like it's been doing?

 

[alex barker]

Alright, figured it out. The timing mark on the crank is actually a V shaped notch in one of the counterweights, not a stamped mark. Looking at the old crankshaft I realized that the 0/0 mark I thought was timing wasn't there on that one - and therefore probably wasn't actually significant. It is now running fine. Despite not getting any replies to this, I thought it might be helpful to someone in the future to update this and describe the crank timing mark. I initially assumed the notch was just used for balancing, but that is actually achieved by grinding off material smoothly across the counterweights.