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How to change impeller and wear ring

42486 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  stimpsonjcat
Here is how i changed my stock impeller and wear ring to a solas 12/17 and a riva racing ss ring.

If you dont have ibr, this will be alot easier.

1. remove the bolt with nut that secures the ibr rod to the ibr bucket.
2. Remove the 2 bolts holding the bucket to the venturi.
Right bolt:

Left bolt:

3. Disconnect the steering linkage

Now it should look like this:

4. Now remove the 2 bolts on the inside of the steering nozzle and trimming ring.
Now it should look like this:

5. Remove the two ibr/nozzle supports attached to the venturi. Three bolts on each support.

Now it should look like this:

6. Pull out the siphon tube (no need to take of the clamp) and remove the three bolts securing the pump to the pump support and pull rearwards to remove pump.
Now it should look like this:

Support the drive shaft:

7. Remove the three bolts securing the venturi to the impeller housing. TIP secure your impeller removal tool in a vice and place the pump on it. This will make it easier to work on it.

With the venturi off, it should look like this:

8. Remove the three bolts on the nose cone:

9. Put this flat side in a vice:

10. Unscrew the impeller boot. It has reverse threads:

11. Insert the impeller removal tool in the impeller and unscrew the impeller. Its pretty tight so use some force!

12. Wipe of the antiseize on the impellershaft threads and put new loctite 767 antiseize on it. If you dont have antiseize, bearing grease will work.

13. Remove the impeller o-ring and put a new one in the new impeller. Lube it with some triple guard grease/ bearing grease or something.

14. Screw the new impeller onto the impeller shaft and tourqe to 125 NM. Againg use some force and be aware of the loud click that comes from the tourqe wrench when its tourqed all the way.

15. The solas impeller comes with a new impeller boot, it has no threads. Put loctite 577 on it and pop it in.

16. Discard and replace the two nose cone o-rings with NEW o-rings. Make sure the new ones are nice and lubed with bearing grease.
17. Install the nose cone by wiggling it, secure it with NEW screws and tourqe them to 7,5 NM.

18. Transfer the neoprene seal from the old wear ring to the new.

19. Lube up the new wear ring with XPS synthetic grease.

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20. Install the new wear ring, make sure the anti rotation tab is aligned

21. Install the venturi. Bolts will go in only if the alignment is right. Use loctite 243 on all three bolts and tourqe to 22 NM.

22. Lube the drive shaft splines with triple guard grease.

23. This is the hardest part, align the pump and make sure ibr rod, steering arm and siphon tube is out of the way.

24. Once properly aligned, put siphon tube back in and secure it with new bolts. (If you really cant get new bolts, just use loctite243) and tourqe to 22 NM.

25. Install the LH and RH supports, three bolts per support. Use loctite 243 on all of them. I couldnt find the tourqe specs for these, but i did 22 NM.

26. Install the steering nozzle with two bolts. Use loctite 243 on both and tourqe to 24 NM, IF you can get a tourqe wrench in there... I did not... So i just thightened as hard as could.( bolts were really hard to remove!)

27. Connect the steering linkage again.
28. Install the IBR bucket again, using loctite 243 on both bolts. I dont have the tourqe specs for this either, but i tried 22 NM
29. Connect the IBR rod to the bucket again
30. DONE!

This was the first time i changed impeller and wear ring, it really aint that hard. Its just take some time and patience.

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I was limited to 25 pics, therefore its 2 posts

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Great job! I'll be saving this to my favorites. Thanks for the write up!
Glad someone took the time to document, I was so anxious when I did mine that I did not take photos etc.

quick video on the process as well
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Impeller advice

Okay, make all your jokes now. :D I know you should not start these on the beach, but apparently my idiot bother didn't understand that when I told him to only start in 4 feet or more. :crying: So now, I need some advice. Clearly the wear ring will need to be replaced. That being said, can you take a look at the impeller and housing from these pics. The impeller is beat up a little, but still seems like it will work. The housing is different. You see that chip in the metal down there, is that okay to wait on replacement, or does it need it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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If you have ibr, i would wait on a new impeller because of all the extra stuff to do when you're removing the pump. If you dont have ibr, i would try to file the damaged blades and put it in if you end up with good results. However, if you don't have to wait to long on a new impeller, i would just wait. I really recommend the solas 12/17 with a ss wear ring, better acceleration and more fun, as it jumps out the water. Even in touring mode:)

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Has anyone else actually used the Loctite 577 inside the nose cone to drive shaft? That stuff is expensive, $19 for a tiny bottle. I've never seen this done in any impeller write-up. Just wondering if this came from a manual or something. I think I will buy the shaft grease, looks like good stuff. Not sure if I'm going to worry about all the o-rings. I see no mention of re-packing the grease for the bearings, in the nose cone and around both ends of impeller shaft. That's something I used to do every time I took apart the pumps on my Honda skis.
I’ve taken my impeller in and out three times and never used 577, nor repacked or bought new orings. Although these three impeller changes were done close to the same time on a less than 40 hour ski.
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Step 5. How do you get the bottom bolt (of the 3) off easily? And back on?
Hello, great post, just wondering why lube the inside of the wear ring? Smoother installation or just overall smoother ride?
22NM or 24NM are you sure those aren't FT-LB?
That's awfully light.
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