I finally got around to winterizing my spark 3 up and wanted to share some basic info and tips regarding tools etc.
My winterization was completed at 25hrs. What i did was removed the upper body. completed an oil change and filter change, changed the spark plugs(weren't bad looking but it's cheap), fluid filmed the engine and surrounding metal supports, put antifreeze into the water box to prevent freezing (fresh water only machine otherwise blow water out with air), lubing all wires and or cable systems, a small shot of stabil fogging spray into each cylinder and filling the gas tank full and using stabil in the tank.
Stock plugs are NGK cr8eb
Oil filter is rotax 956123
Oil is xps synthetic blend summer 293600121
the tool to remove the oil filter cap is an e8 external torx socket and to remove bolts for upper body and spark plug coils is a t30 torx bit
I also used xps lubricant on the impeller and grate etc.
1st off.. the main connector tab is a weak spot so be careful and figure out how it works before yanking apart.
Also don't forget to disconnect the small clip next to the main!
2. Keep bolts in labeled containers there are different sizes for different areas some with washers and some without.
3.watch out for the body mount support under the tow hook inside the hull toward the back of the machine it has to stay in place or bolts won't line up
4.Disconnect wires for coil packs prior to lifting them and there's another clip that I could see is easy to damage so remove that one first as well.
5. Replace the oil filter cap oring with new one and rub new oil on it for future ease of removal.
6.take pictures prior to starting
It's actually very easy to complete the whole process. EBay has a kit for oil changes roughly 45 dollars contains oem filter oring and oil.
Ordered spark plugs seperetly from advance auto
And amazon for lubes etc.
Now before I put the top back on can anyone share their experience with removing the stock flame arrestor is it safe for me to do and does it help with throttle response thanks