Just some basic info and tips about winterizing the spark

26003 Views 25 Replies 15 Participants Last post by ScottFern, Jul 19, 2016

Poedic603

Discussion Starter · Nov 30, 2014

I finally got around to winterizing my spark 3 up and wanted to share some basic info and tips regarding tools etc.

My winterization was completed at 25hrs. What i did was removed the upper body. completed an oil change and filter change, changed the spark plugs(weren't bad looking but it's cheap), fluid filmed the engine and surrounding metal supports, put antifreeze into the water box to prevent freezing (fresh water only machine otherwise blow water out with air), lubing all wires and or cable systems, a small shot of stabil fogging spray into each cylinder and filling the gas tank full and using stabil in the tank.

Stock plugs are NGK cr8eb
Oil filter is rotax 956123
Oil is xps synthetic blend summer 293600121
the tool to remove the oil filter cap is an e8 external torx socket and to remove bolts for upper body and spark plug coils is a t30 torx bit
I also used xps lubricant on the impeller and grate etc.

1st off.. the main connector tab is a weak spot so be careful and figure out how it works before yanking apart.
Also don't forget to disconnect the small clip next to the main!
2. Keep bolts in labeled containers there are different sizes for different areas some with washers and some without.
3.watch out for the body mount support under the tow hook inside the hull toward the back of the machine it has to stay in place or bolts won't line up

.
4.Disconnect wires for coil packs prior to lifting them and there's another clip that I could see is easy to damage so remove that one first as well.
5. Replace the oil filter cap oring with new one and rub new oil on it for future ease of removal.
6.take pictures prior to starting
It's actually very easy to complete the whole process. EBay has a kit for oil changes roughly 45 dollars contains oem filter oring and oil.
Ordered spark plugs seperetly from advance auto
And amazon for lubes etc.

Now before I put the top back on can anyone share their experience with removing the stock flame arrestor is it safe for me to do and does it help with throttle response thanks

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1 - 20 of 26 Posts

Poedic603

Discussion Starter · #2 · Nov 30, 2014

Here's a pic of a great oil pump I got from walmart for 30 bucks and it worked amazingly! Didn't heat the oil prior and it sucked all of it out without a hesitation.

BTW there were no metal shavings at all in oil or filter. Although the oil filter was pretty used after 25hrs

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Poedic603

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 30, 2014

2

Here's the oil change kit and what the plugs looked like after 25hrs

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Poedic603

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 30, 2014

5

And some random shots of the engine, oil filter cap, spark plug access, driveshaft and water box

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[email protected]

· #5 · Dec 2, 2014 (Edited)

This is how we winterized ours. 12/01/14
http://imgur.com/YJqAx1i

Pirate

· #6 · Dec 2, 2014

[email protected] said:
This is how we winterized ours. 12/01/14
http://imgur.com/YJqAx1i

Now that's my kind of winterizing

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zama89

· #7 · Dec 3, 2014

[email protected] said:
This is how we winterized ours. 12/01/14
http://imgur.com/YJqAx1i

Same here in Central Texas. Lake temps are down to around 60-62*F. I invested in a good 3/2 wetsuit. We can have 75-80*F days at any time in the winter, so winterizing myself rather than the Spark is much easier.

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Poedic603

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 3, 2014

Damm you guys have it good! It's 16 out this morning in lovely new hampshire

Cory MacSween

· #9 · Dec 6, 2014

All I did to winterize mine was blow the water out, run the engine 10 seconds, blow more water, run 10 seconds. I did that repeatedly until no more drops of water came out, sprayed silicone spray on the impeller and backed it into my shed. Mine runs nothing but fresh water. I'll do the oil change in the spring.

Poedic603

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 6, 2014

Yeah I wouldn't have done so much but I was anxious to take the top off for the first time and have a look!
I also keep mine in a semi heated garage (45 degrees) other than that I'm kind of a nut when it comes to maintaining my toys.. I do it like the dealer would.

Poedic603

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 6, 2014

I can say that in my case the upper body would not go on as easy as it should have it was kinda difficult to create the same seal as the original time it was put on. It didn't wanna sit all the way down on the lower body until I started really wrenching down on the bolts

skibum151

· #12 · Oct 18, 2015 (Edited)

Winterizing

I saw someone say all they did to winterize was blow out the water, run the engine 10 seconds, blow out the water, run the engine 10 seconds, repeat. Where do I hook up an air hose to blow out the water? And what is the max PSI I should use? I saw 55 but then someone else said that wasn't enough. Also, I don't know if I have a flush kit installed. Is that necessary to blow out the water? Thanks!

rew2424

· #13 · Oct 18, 2015

You can go to any place that sells RV's and they will have the blowout adapter. They come in plastic, air value type, solid brass air hose type. I bought the solid brass air hose type as it'll connect right up to my air hose quick connector. The plastic one is about $2.99, the air value type is about $6.99 while the brass air hose type is $7.99. The manual states to blow out at 55 psi. It works great. You can hear the water gurgling inside the exhaust while it coming out, then it gets completely quiet when all the water is out. So easy to do.

Patrick

· #14 · Oct 18, 2015

I blew out the water as explained above. I decided to check if it actually worked since i already had the too deck off. I took out the waterbox, and there was still a good amount of water in it...

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Cormacs

· #15 · Oct 19, 2015

I just use a air fitting for air tools. I plug it into the air line so it just free flows and I aim it at the flush hole. I have a 2014 without the flush kit and 2015 with. All I do is line the free flowing air line up with the hole and blow until water stops. Start the engine and leave running until water stops, usually 15-20 seconds. Blow more air and repeat 4-5 times. Usually by the 5th time the water stops running out. Since it is a coolant cooled engine all your doing is getting water out of the exhaust. As long as you remove enough water that their is room for what remains to expand into ice your gold.

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skibum151

· #16 · Oct 19, 2015

Thanks for all the responses! Much appreciated!

dennisml

· #17 · Oct 21, 2015

I have 2105 spark with 15 hours on it is necessary when I winterize it to change oil and filter, spray fogging oil cylinder heads and put antifreeze through the flush port. I trying to winterize it with out taking the top deck off. Also has anyone taken a battery out without removing the top deck. And would spraying fogging oil into the air intake be sufficient?

Cormacs

· #18 · Oct 21, 2015

If you scroll up all your answers are there.

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Trials

· #19 · Nov 7, 2015

Patrick said:
I blew out the water as explained above. I decided to check if it actually worked since i already had the too deck off. I took out the waterbox, and there was still a good amount of water in it...

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Observed the same thing here too. Trying to work out a way to increase the air flow volume with an air pig now. Seems to need more air flow volume then air pressure.

Has anyone tried adding plumbing anti-freeze to replace the remaining water, like you would do in the hot water tank and s-traps on a travel trailer?

Cormacs

· #20 · Nov 7, 2015

I don't think a little water is going to hurt it. The items that are water cooled are large and have plenty of room for the water to expand into ice. Blowing with air will get the majority of the water out and leave room for the expansion.

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