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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks, anybody figured out why the VTS kit is only for the IBR models yet ?

I am sure we could make it work on non IBR models.

Looking at the O.E microfiche for Sparks, you can get all the IBR pump parts separately. The trimming ring is only $54 and the two brackets that hold the ring in place are $19 each.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...?Type=13&make=seadoopwc&a=20&b=17&c=0-REVERSE

I think the Seadoo VTS kit for IBR models consists of VTS motor,handle bar switch and cover.

The only problem might be the feedback to the gauge....not sure if all wiring harnesses are the same.

What do you think ?
 

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Sounds cool. But why not just buy a Sea Doo that already has VTS? I don't think you really need it. The Spark levels out pretty well once you're up on plane. And I kinda think the Spark is too light anyway for a trim system to really be effective.

But that's just me. I prefer less gadgets and electronics gizmos to go wrong on my Spark, I don't have IBR or manual brake as a result.
 

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Hi Folks, anybody figured out why the VTS kit is only for the IBR models yet ?

I am sure we could make it work on non IBR models.

Looking at the O.E microfiche for Sparks, you can get all the IBR pump parts separately. The trimming ring is only $54 and the two brackets that hold the ring in place are $19 each.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...?Type=13&make=seadoopwc&a=20&b=17&c=0-REVERSE

I think the Seadoo VTS kit for IBR models consists of VTS motor,handle bar switch and cover.

The only problem might be the feedback to the gauge....not sure if all wiring harnesses are the same.

What do you think ?
The kit doesn't come with the vts motor, the kit will control the nozzle position with the IBR actuator, that part along makes it cheaper to just buy one with IBR vs. one without, I wish it was a separate stand along system myself because I have a two seater without IBR and a three seater with IBR and would really love to have VTS on both of them, so I am buying a new two seater with IBR and will add VTS to both of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The kit doesn't come with the vts motor, the kit will control the nozzle position with the IBR actuator, that part along makes it cheaper to just buy one with IBR vs. one without, I wish it was a separate stand along system myself because I have a two seater without IBR and a three seater with IBR and would really love to have VTS on both of them, so I am buying a new two seater with IBR and will add VTS to both of them.


Bit confused here....do you know what is in the $200 VTS kit.

The guys in the YouTube clip have just added a motor,trim ring and switch by the look of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That person retrofitted a vts off an older seadoo. It works, but is not the same as the kit, and will not show up on the display

Ok Folks, help me out here.........what exactly is in the $220 VTS kit ?

Apart from the handlebar cover and switch.....

Does anybody know?
 

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That person retrofitted a vts off an older seadoo. It works, but is not the same as the kit, and will not show up on the display

Ok Folks, help me out here.........what exactly is in the $220 VTS kit ?

Apart from the handlebar cover and switch.....

Does anybody know?
Vts on any unit with Ibr is controlled through the Ibr actuator, there are kits for some prior seadoo units that came with Ibr but didn't have Vts and you can add a kit to them for about $200 plus install also, basically yes thats about it, the older upgrade kits for gti's didn't have any nozzle connections it was all through the ibr, but the spark has a trim ring for the nozzle so there may be something else?! remember its the software to make it work with the Ibr that you are paying for also.

not saying there isn't a cheaper way to do it! ;) anyone in for designing one?
 

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VTS add-on to 2014 Spark

Just completed install of Sea-Doo Spark VTS kit (for iBR) on both 2014 Sparks. Kit was $199.99 each (less with my dealer discount) and included everything needed for retro-fit. First one took 15 mins (reading instructions, etc), second one took half the time. Tested thru iBR Override mode & seemed to work, but haven't had a chance to get 'em in the water for the real verdict. Easy install with minimal tools, so I certainly wouldn't pay anyone to do this simple job, not sure why they quote 0.75 hour labor..


I would think it would be easier (not cheaper tho) to just install the ibr option (wiring/actuator/etc) to a non-ibr Spark if you wanted VTS since the mounting etc. is already there, or possibly could just use the manual BR kit and connect it to the nozzle w/out bucket...without actually having brake/reverse... but that's why I opted for it to begin with. Maybe BRP will come out with a kit for non-ibr too, my dealer mentioned there's a new BRP heavy-duty ($150 metal) wear ring for it now that isn't even listed in the 2015 catalog.
 

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can anyone detail exactly whats needed for the installation process?
ive heard a dealer needs to activate it?
Thanks to all

I emailed a dealer on ebay and he says that re soldering a pin on the connection is required and i emailed another dealer who says it literally plugs in and off you go so im trying to clarify what exactly is entailed.
 

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can anyone detail exactly whats needed for the installation process?
ive heard a dealer needs to activate it?
Thanks to all

I emailed a dealer on ebay and he says that re soldering a pin on the connection is required and i emailed another dealer who says it literally plugs in and off you go so im trying to clarify what exactly is entailed.


Its completely plug-n-play WITHOUT the dealer. NO re-soldering. Even the slightest mechanically inclined person can tackle it, with only one 'tricky' part- removing the blanks in the connector does require either a $10 tool, or a very thin diameter (straightened) paperclip-like device. It's worth having the tool anyway, since all the other connectors on the Spark can use it too.
 

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Does the vts module that goes inside the hull connect behind the coolant overflow tank? Can't seem to find the connector that it uses from the access panel @gixxer
 

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You don't need any special tools. If you take the white lock tab right out by pulling a little harder. You can use the precision flat screw driver to lift the retainer and pull the blank out the back. Then the white lock tab just pushes back in after the new wires are installed. That's all I did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You don't need any special tools. If you take the white lock tab right out by pulling a little harder. You can use the precision flat screw driver to lift the retainer and pull the blank out the back. Then the white lock tab just pushes back in after the new wires are installed. That's all I did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm ive tried a precision driver and a pin and a filed down paper clip nothing that went in the terminal disengaged the blank
I did dislodge the white (inner piece) forward then i try to stick the precision driver in the small hole under the terminal that the blank is behind but when i try to pull the blank its still stuck.
does it just take some force? does it go inside the acctual terminal where the receiver pins on the male side go or hole under it like instructions say? or is there just a trick to release the blank like lift it upward or straight in and turn?
@Cormacs
 
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