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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After some experimentation with a Bluetooth portable speaker on my Spark, and another Bluetooth amp and some speakers in my shop, I've set on a plan for my Spark's stereo system.



I've found it's best to get the speakers as close to your ears as possible to overcome wind noise at speed. The handlebars are about as close as you can get. I'm using a pair of PQN Enterprises SPA22-4BK marine two-way speakers rated at 25W each. I got a pair on eBay for $24 with shipping. Since they are small, they don't have a lot of booming bass, but I'm OK with that.



I'm using an inexpensive Bluetooth amplifier that I also purchased on eBay for $14 with shipping (from China). The amplifier uses an STMicroeletronics TDA7492P chip, which is a BTL (bridge-tied load: one amplifier for + and one for -) class D (switching) amplifier also rated at 25 W per channel. It was designed for LCD TVs. It's a really efficient amplifier chip that requires no heat sink.

The amp board includes a Bluetooth module (the blue board in the photo). There are on-board switches to control Play/Pause, Volume Up and Down, and Next and Previous. I don't use the latter two, so I'm only wiring up three external switches in parallel with the on-board ones. The on-board switches will be inaccessible, as the amp board will be put into a waterproof case located in the area under the gauge.



I'm using some inexpensive waterproof push button switches to control the system. I decided to mount these on the small panel that encloses the space for the optional manual reverse.



This will be a really clean installation. It will be easily reversible, as the handlebar panel and reverse cover panel can be replaced for not a lot of money. I'm going to tap into accessory power at the gauge, so no extra cables or connectors will need to be disconnected to remove central body for maintenance. I'm waiting on waterproof connectors which will be used to connect power, the speakers, and the switches to the amplifier for ready servicing.

I'll post additional details as I complete the installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I completed my installation a couple of weeks ago and am very happy with the results. I like my music loud and there is more than enough volume even at speed.

Most of the installation and the electrical connections were made under the Multifunction Gauge. No disassembly of the ski is required - just pop off the SOS kit access panel.



Switched power is available at the connection to the Multifunction Gauge. This is the same source of power that is used by the Sea Doo Electrical Connection Kit although not the same location. I temporarily pulled the connector to the Gauge and the OTAS sensor to get better access to the wiring harness. The red and black wires that I added were spliced into the wiring harness, soldered, sealed with liquid electrical tape for a watertight connection, and wrapped with electrical tape.

Speaker wires were routed up the steering column core. I used a waterproof connector pair as shown for easy disassembly should that be required. Similar connectors were also used for the power connection and control switches connection.



I used a waterproof electronics enclosure for the amplifier. Wires were routed out a grommet that was sealed with silicone sealer for a waterproof fit. The enclosure was attached to the Spark with 3M Super Strong Automotive Attachment Tape.



I did drill one hole at the handlebars to route the speaker wires, but this hole is out of sight.

I did not wire a power switch as one is really not necessary. The amp comes on when the Spark is running or momentarily when the Start/Stop switch is pressed with the tether detached. When not actually playing music the amp draws little power and the speakers of course are quiet.

To use the stereo at the beach, just disconnect the tether and hold the Start/Stop switch pressed with a clothespin. The Multifunction Gauge and amp stay on. BTW when you press and release the Start/Stop switch with the tether detached, the gauge is active for only a few seconds, but switched power stays active for about 3 minutes. Likewise when you kill the engine. This gives plenty of time to stop the Spark, disconnect the tether, and clip on a clothespin without losing the Bluetooth connection.

While many owners might want a stereo, some might not. If I ever sell the Spark the stereo can be removed and the handlebar and manual reverse panels replaced with new at little cost leaving no visible evidence that a stereo was installed.
 

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Now see that's what I thinking! How does it handle with the new gear? Any changes? Does the amp overheat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How does it handle with the new gear? Any changes?
No impact at all to the Spark's handling if that's what you mean.

Does the amp overheat?
No. As I mentioned, the amp uses a Class D chip, which means it is a switching amplifier. These are very efficient and run cool. The chip does not even require a heatsink. I tested it on the bench, as this was a concern of mine, and it was not even warm to the touch at high volume levels.
 

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Just so you know that switched power is only fused by a 10 amp fuse. That isn't a whole lot of power to share. The spark electrical kit connects before the fuse and after a 15 amp fuse so there is a little more power for it. I only know this because I needed to steal power for a marine radio setup inhave


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just so you know that switched power is only fused by a 10 amp fuse. That isn't a whole lot of power to share. The spark electrical kit connects before the fuse and after a 15 amp fuse so there is a little more power for it. I only know this because I needed to steal power for a marine radio setup inhave


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The amp is quite efficient and draws less than 3 amps even at volume levels so high it is distorting in my setup. There's really no more power available at the 15 amp fuse because in addition to feeding the 10 amp circuit it also supplies the coils and injectors. For a really high power setup one would need to run a separate connection to the battery.
 

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The amp is quite efficient and draws less than 3 amps even at volume levels so high it is distorting in my setup. There's really no more power available at the 15 amp fuse because in addition to feeding the 10 amp circuit it also supplies the coils and injectors. For a really high power setup one would need to run a separate connection to the battery.

I was actually mistaken the spark electrical accessory power outlet connects directly to the battery. So there isn't a whole lot of power to be stolen at all. I ran my multimeter in series with the fuse box and it runs pretty close to 10 amps steady while running. That's why I chose to put a relay to supply battery voltage to my radio off its own fuse. I guess you could always up the 15 and 10 amp fuse by 5 amps because really that's not that big of a difference. My only fear was that I would be in the middle of the river and I would key the mic and the fuse would blow leaving my stranded. 10 amp draw from the ski itself and then 3 from a radio only leaves 2 for wiggle room. Doesn't leave much for spikes and surges. Food for thought.



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You're right to be concerned about blowing fuse on the water, as was I. But there appears to be a certain amount of headroom designed into the system.

How much? I have not been able to find detailed specs or information, such as an electrical schematic of the Electric Connection Kit, but we can deduce a couple of things. The kit allows you to connect two electrical accessories, one of them being the depth finder if you add that. I understand that it connects to the Diagnostic Connector, so it is getting power through the 15 amp fuse (and possibly the 10?). I also believe that it has a separate 3 amp fuse. So this suggests that there is at least 3 surplus amps in the system available for accessories.

I used electrical connectors on my installation to make it easier to disassemble if required, but also to cut power to the amp if need be. My amp's power connector is readily accessible under the SOS kit cover. If I were to blow a fuse on the water, I would unplug the amp before replacing with a spare fuse.

So this works with my system, but a Kicker amp for example can draw up to 10 amps, so you would definitely not want to connect it as I have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is the type of connector that I used - Delphi Connection Systems Weather Pack Series. The male connector housings come with the green seals. You purchase pins and the small green seals for the wires separately. To complete assembly the hinged housing covers are folded down and lock in place. Nice system, but I believe I spent more on the connectors and case than the amp and speakers!


 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't have a drawing or sketch, just these photos. It's not difficult to place the speakers on the handlebar cover and locate and cut holes with a circular saw. I put masking tape on the cover to make marks to locate the cutouts. Once you've located one speaker cutout, measure to locate the other side the same. Use stainless steel screws, washers, and lock nuts to fasten.

I'm quite satisfied with the performance. As I mentioned, these are small speakers and do not have a lot of bass. But the system is plenty loud to be heard at speed, and the location of the speakers is ideal. The speakers beep a few seconds after starting the ski, letting you know the system is ready, and after having paired once it connects to my Android LG phone effortlessly every time. I just start my music player and the system is connected, no other action required. There is also a beep each time you press volume up or down. If you press and hold, volume will increase/decrease with repeated beeps. When you hit max volume there is another tone to let you know, but if I have my phone at max volume the system will be distorting by then.

 
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