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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yesterday i went inner tubing with my gf and buddy. My friend has always been cautious about sucking up the rope but yesterday he managed to suck up the rope into the intake grate. As soon as he started it, it sucked it up then stopped immediately. Being stuck out in the water with no boats around we managed to to tip it over and my gf used her tiny hands to get the rope unwrapped around the impeller. Took her 30 minutes but when we were done. The ski wouldnt start. So we waited awhile and then opened the engine compartment cover to find the thing filled with water. After we got towed to shore and got the thing home i managed to get all the water out but now it wont start. It trys to turn something on but wont turn on completly. Any ideas of what i could do. Should i let it keep drying until everything is dry then try and start?
 

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30 minutes is a long time for the ski to be upside down in the water.

It sounds as if the engine is filled with water. If the engine is filled with water, then it will not be able to crank because the water will prevent the pistons from moving up.
Take out the spark plugs and crank the engine. This will allow the water to be blown out of the top of the engine.
If you can get it started again, change the oil very soon. Don't run it too long before changing the oil.

If you're lucky it hasn't seized up yet.
If you're unlucky you need a new engine.

Good luck.
 

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That's a huge drag! Sorry. I hope you get it resolved quickly and cheaply!

It is also the best argument for the speed ties. Of all the options I went with, that was the most worthwhile!
 

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i did that in 2009 with my RXP-X 255 RS, the whole engine got wracked so had to change it.. it was the power of the engine that curled the pistons. They were all shaped like "S" .... i was like wtf...

I did not flip it like you did, but maybe the same thing happened to you. the Spark got a lot less power, but you never know, the pistons is a lot smaller so, who knows.. it took my all year fixing the sh*it.

Anyway good luck.. when i see a rope tied to the front of a ski i curl up list like my pistons did..
 

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So if i cant get it started again after taking out the plugs then its seized up?
It won't start with the plugs out.
Removing the plugs and cranking it will blow the water out of the engine. That's assuming that trying to start it with cylinders full of water didn't damage the internal components.
If it cranks with the plugs out and pushes the water out of the cylinders, you'll need to put the plugs back in and see if it starts. Don't run it for very long without doing an oil change or you could wreck the main bearings.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I took the spark plugs out and cranked it. It appears that it would start with the spark plugs. They were wet when we pulled them out. A lot of water came out. Now im wondering do i keep trying to get all the water out? Or is it okay if theirs a little bit of water inside still? I dont wanna put the plugs back in and try if i need to get all yhe water out. And should i get an oil change first?
 

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You should be fine. Really there should be minimal water in the oil. Check the level on the dipstick - if it's over full than there's water in it. The most important thing is getting it started ASAP - ideally within an hour or so of hydro locking it. Any water contamination will evaporate out the crankcase vent once you get it fired up and running. The sooner you get it started the better.

Pull the plugs, crank it over to blow the water out of the combustion chambers. Put them back in and start it. If you cranked a lot when the motor wouldnt turn over you may have bent a rod or broken something. On the spark - if you hold the throttle at full when cranking it won't start. If I flip mine, I always hold full throttle and crank a little at a time to make sure the motor isn't hydrolocked, then start

As far as changing the oil - the new oils are very good at dissolving water. If the level isn't too high on the dipstick, just fire it up and run it. The water will evaporate out of the oil after you get to full operating temp for a while.

Good luck
 

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It's a marine engine, It can handle some water. Just hopefully you haven't bent a connecting rod when trying to crank it over with it being hydro-locked. I would use a fogging oil and douse the cylinders with it too help disperse the water so it can be "burnt". (Obviously don't try to crank it full of fogging oil) My dad's work used to sink honda outboards to the bottom of lake Huron all the **** time, Blow the water out, Change the oil. Good to go. Just don't wait, Get to it ASAP. And next time don't think you can solve a tangled impeller out in the water ;)
 

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It's a marine engine, It can handle some water. Just hopefully you haven't bent a connecting rod when trying to crank it over with it being hydro-locked. I would use a fogging oil and douse the cylinders with it too help disperse the water so it can be "burnt". (Obviously don't try to crank it full of fogging oil) My dad's work used to sink honda outboards to the bottom of lake Huron all the **** time, Blow the water out, Change the oil. Good to go. Just don't wait, Get to it ASAP. And next time don't think you can solve a tangled impeller out in the water ;)
You need to remove the air box and make sure it is empty of water then you will need to remove the intake plenuim and empty the water out of it too then remove the muffler to empty the exhaust manifold, once you have them dried out then you can start cranking the engine over with the plugs out to expel the water, once you have gotten as much out as you can I would get as much oil out as you can, I know on the 4tec engines you pull the head cover off and stick the tube from your oil evacuator down by the timing chain to remove more oil/water (I suspect the spark engine has a similar procedure) once you have that done then you can try to start it with fresh oil and you will have to do a boil out procedure where you get the engine temp up high enough to boil the water out of the oil, you can't keep running the engine with any water in it, it isn't a lubricant and will cause bearing failure if you don't. there is a specific procedure for this in the shop manual. Once you have the boil out procedure you will change the oil once more. like previous statements you don't want to try to turn the engine over with water in it or you will bend a connecting rod, if you have a rod bent and you get it running it will fail in a few hours and break and go right through the engine block destroying your engine, so you may be better to disassemble the engine to inspect the rods if you have been trying to crank the engine over with water in it.
 

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I'm curious as to how the speed ties relate to this situation?
The original poster sucked up a rope. Pretty much everyone who sucks up a rope is using it to tie their Sparks to docks etc. The speed ties retract into the Spark and eliminate the problem. Sadly, no help to the poster, but something for people to consider as a good 'add-on' to their Spark.
 

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In this case the OP was using the rope for pulling a tube.
It's good to see all the helpful advice coming. It's nice to know there are many knowledgeable guys on this forum willing to help.
I hope you get it going and nothing was damaged. Good luck Man!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks alot guys talked to some more people about it and i should be able to get it running. Im gonna try today and ill let you know how it goes thanks again for all the help. This forum is great :)
 

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On the spark - if you hold the throttle at full when cranking it won't start. If I flip mine, I always hold full throttle and crank a little at a time to make sure the motor isn't hydrolocked, then start
Quack could you explain this a little more in case I ever flip mine.
What's the difference with starting it when holding the throttle all the way down vs not touching the throttle and just starting it?

Thanks
 

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I just dealt with this. I pulled the plugs and stuck a leaf blower in the throttle body/ intake. Then sprayed half a can of Seafoam spray , not the lubricant but real Seafoam. In the plug holes and everywhere. My oil was at the top w/ water. Changed the oil, put a batt charger and it started right up with no check engine light. I tilted it on its nose because the intake was full. Even the muffler was half full.
 

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Quack could you explain this a little more in case I ever flip mine.
What's the difference with starting it when holding the throttle all the way down vs not touching the throttle and just starting it?

Thanks
The ECU gets put in a "Flooded mode" meaning it doesn't fire the injectors.
 
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