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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just wanted to post my experience because I original thought it was a much bigger issue. The reason I thought it was a much bigger issue is because I thought you barely moved when it was cracked but not in my case.

I am the only one that rides this ski, I didnt notice running over anything. I noticed the last 2 times I went out the ski would only go 44, didnt notice anything else and just thought it was the gps. Then yesterday it didnt seem to jump out of the hole at first. But by the end of the day I would give it gas, it would feel like it was slipping but eventually would get up to 44. I thought because of the symptoms I had a big problem because I didnt think a wear ring would act like that but when I got it out of the water it had a 1 inch crack at the top of the ring, a bit relieved.

The dealer wants 400 to replace but I am going to try to do it myself. Question, looking at the shop manual why do you have to put xps synthetic grease inside the ring, wont that just come off once in water? I have IBR, any other suggestions?


Update: I have spent hours and gone through the entire maintenance forum over the last 2 years as I had time, some how I missed that these rings wear out over time, you dont have to run over anything. My trixx has 101 hrs on it, dang it had 75 hrs when I winterized it , if I had known I would of replaced it then instead of being out of commission for any amount of time during our short summer on east coast.
 

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That's probably a good point and I guess the name "WEAR" ring would indicate that it is in fact a consumable part of the ski. What is the recommended replacement interval for normal wear?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well just a follow up for informational purposes. My ring didnt "Wear Out" like I thought it was shattered. IMO after doing this and seeing the tight tolerances I would never use a SS wear ring.

I have never seen anybody mention the following so I was a bit unprepared with a few things when I started. A side from the normal tools to do the job right you need the the following: triple guard grease, xps synthetic grease, new pump bolts (because they come with scotch grip), loctite 243, and torque wrenches.

Really makes me wonder how people do this on the "fly" or while at the beach or water.
 

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Gibbs, sorry to hear about you’re being down (man, I know, that s*cks, big-time!) ...

Just felt compelled to post a thank you for starting this thread; I’m here to learn and your info is very helpful (and, I’m sure I’m not alone)!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gibbs, sorry to hear about you’re being down (man, I know, that s*cks, big-time!) ...

Just felt compelled to post a thank you for starting this thread; I’m here to learn and your info is very helpful (and, I’m sure I’m not alone)!

Spank, thanks...glad your here this forum has so much information. I literally have gone through all the forums to learn about the Spark. You can save yourself a ton of money and down time.



One thing I noticed was people would come on the forums with a problem, get it resolved and never post the follow up for historical data for the rest of us who maybe searching in the future. So I try to avoid that personally.
 

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. . . One thing I noticed was people would come on the forums with a problem, get it resolved and never post the follow up for historical data for the rest of us who maybe searching in the future. So I try to avoid that personally.
Oh my, me too and (holding my head in both hands now) I just “followed up” on another forum after posting for “Help!” after a stone cold fox of a houseguest (I’d post a bikini pic but, she and her husband are too good of friends! :) got a piece of plastic trash floating in our lake wedged up into the impeller of our current ‘18 Yama VXR. Resolving that and getting that particular ski back on the water turned out to be about as simple as using a hooked coat hanger to get into a older car from the 60s-70s-80s with the old-style “button-post” door locks down. Took longer to tow the ski to the ramp then to get her running again, once there.

Anyhoo, obviously, it will be different with the TRIXX which we anticipate purchasing in 2019 so, again, I REALLY APPRECIATE all the info helping us be prepared.

If you don’t mind me asking, WHERE do you purchase the parts you list? (I often find sourcing certain parts, and especially “specialty” items like the two different greases you mention, etc. are More Than Half the Battle in doing maintenance +/or repairs, etc.

Is there an online source for the OEM parts that saves any $ over other sources?

LOL, and I am STILL in “paralysis by analysis” trying to find a dependable AND accurate torque wrench - can you recommend one? Edit: taking GreenHornet and wizzer’s advice and just going with an old-style analog click adjust torque wrench ...

Thanks again and, Happy Shredding!
 

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I’m assuming this is the XPS grease you’re referring to?

Thanks again for all the assist!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Spank,

Yes finding a torque wrench that had the low specs that the Spark calls for in spots was hard to find. What I found is bicycles have a lot of low torque specs so I bought a park tool TW-5.2. Nice wrench but expensive.

I order from https://alloutcycles.com/ and https://www.seadoopartshouse.com/. FYI I have had terrible luck ordering from seadoos website, seems there is a list of dealerships that get rotated though it. The OEM parts are mostly the same price everywhere. Its definitely cheaper doing it yourself but it isnt necessarily cheap its just that I know it was done right. Two examples!

I went to my dealer to get some coolant to top off my reservoir. He didnt have any told me to go to advanced auto. So my question what are they using for the Seadoos in the back?

Then I went to pick up a wear ring. He told me they are replacing them like crazy and currently had a couple they were working on in the back. I wanted the 3 pump bolts which are suppose to be replaced every time and they didnt have them. He told me just to use locktite. That probably is fine but when I take my stuff into the dealership I dont pay them to guess what they can substitute for the manufactures requirements. The other question you have to ask is what other shortcuts are they taking on others people skis?

Love the VXR. How do you like it? The VXR or GP1800 is on my radar
 

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Spank, Love the VXR. How do you like it? The VXR or GP1800 is on my radar
Oh man, MAJOR Apologies for not seeing this before (I surf TOO many forums!)

The VXR is hands down the best investment we have ever made! Bullet proof 1.8 and everything is so dang DIY friendly and accessible! I purposely stayed away from the GP1800 with its supercharger as I am not that mechanically inclined and I don’t like the idea of having to rebuild stuff every 100 hours, etc.

That MAY change in the future, he-he! >:D
 

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I went through a few wear rings in a single summer. I ended up getting stainless 2 years ago.

Takes like 10 min to change.

I went stainless and no issues so far....
 

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Howdy, Michael!

I may opt for a stainless ring at some point in the future but, after thinking about it, one reason I have held off is the number of different guests we let ride our skis. Our skis are never out unless we are home and down on our dock but, the guests are not always in sight of our dock and, with a plastic ring I have a little more assurance if someone sucks something off the surface of our lake, if they unintentionally do something to make the situation worse, the plastic ring will be sacrificed before any damage is done to the impeller, etc.

WHERE THE HECK CAN ONE ACTUALLY LAY HANDS ON SOME SPARE BOLTS FOR THE PUMP?!!!!

(Even if I do use Loctite on the originals, if I even “sniff” a part is hard to find, I never wait til I lose or break a bolt to start tracking replacements down!

Here’s wishing everyone a great summe!
 
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